Brunch—an indulgent and sociable meal inextricably tied with last night’s debauchery—is a dirty, dirty word in Ubud. The once quaint hometown of Bali’s artists and craftsmen has transformed into a holistic healing hotspot inundated with a parade of cold-press-juicing, kale-munching dietary tribe and sun-saluting limbersexuals seeking spirituality with their spirulina and clarity with their chia.

Plant-based restaurants and clean-eating cafés are sprouting up faster than the mould on my walls. One can’t swing one’s eco-friendly cloth bag without knocking over five raw food chefs or yoga teachers. It’s easier to find a colon whisperer (I kid you not) than a cool brunch spot in this town.

Fortunately, a new wave of restaurants in Ubud is stirring things up and reviving the art of brunch and the joy of daytime drinking with hangover dishes that are earth conscious and body friendly. Let’s clink our glasses to my top picks for Ubud’s best brunches!

glow

A long-running smash hit among late risers, glow at the award-winning COMO Shambhala Estate Bali offers the best bottomless Sunday brunch deal. The healthy à la carte Mediterranean-inspired menu is curated to satisfy the fussiest retreat queens and health honchos, boasting homegrown organic ingredients, freshly caught seafood and the finest imported meats.

Nurse your hangover with an invigorating chilled soup of tamarind and young coconut, followed by “lean and clean green”, a detoxifying green juice that delivers nutritious goodness straight into your system. Start with the avocado and fresh soya bean dip with seaweed salsa and chia seed crisps.

The spelt-flour pide is a scrumptious Noah’s Ark of roasted pumpkin, spinach and caramelized onions sprinkled with goat’s feta and pistachio crumbs.

The less culinary restricted gastronomes will not be disappointed by the Australian Wagyu beef slider topped with Gruyère cheese or the harissa-spiced succulent tiger prawns with borlotti beans.

Check out the action in the open kitchen or sit back and watch the local village girls’ practise the traditional Balinese dance accompanied by a gamelan orchestra. This is guilt-free brunch at its best.

“My number one brunch place is glow for the fresh food and the relaxing atmosphere.” –Eva Natasa, Industrial Designer

glow
COMO Shambhala Estate Bali
Banjar Begawan, Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Gianyar
Bali, Indonesia
T: (+62) 361 978 888
www.comohotels.com/comoshambhalaestate/dining/glow

Uma Cucina at Uma by COMO, Ubud

Leave it to the Italians to bring back the tradition of spending Sundays with family and friends over a delectable meal. Uma Cucina is a chic Italian restaurant at Uma by COMO, Ubud that epitomizes the Italian way of celebrating life’s simple pleasures: good food, beautiful art and great company.

Uma Cucina’s all-you-can-eat Italian Sunday brunch with punch has won the hearts and stomachs of many with its wood-fired brick oven pizzas and bread, house-made pasta, cheeses and sausages, classic Italian gelatos and granitas and free-flowing beverage packages.

Delightful, easily shareable antipasti include yellowfin tuna crudo, bruschetta, jumbo octopus and calamari fritti. Tuck into memorable mains like the baby chicken and the signature pizzettas—my favourite is the prosciutto di parma with organic egg, caramelized onions, radicchio and black pepper.

The restaurant—designed by architect Cheong Yew Kuan—oozes conviviality and stimulates lively interactions. A large communal dining table at the heart of the restaurant, an outdoor terrace seating and a laid-back lounge bar with a robust wine list and very crafty cocktails encourage guests to kick back, relax and enjoy la dolce vita.

“I love the variety of delicious freshly made Italian specialties, and since it’s just across the street from Room4Dessert, I can sneak back into service quickly. My daughter loves the vegetarian options.” –Will Goldfarb, chef-owner of Room4Dessert Ubud

Uma Cucina
Uma by COMO, Ubud
Jalan Raya Sanggingan, Ubud
Bali, Indonesia
T: (+62) 361 972 448
www.comohotels.com/en/umaubud/dining/uma-cucina

Copper Kitchen, Bar & Rooftop

Rise and shine! The early bird catches the fabulous breakfast at Bisma Eight’s Copper Kitchen, Bar & Rooftop, a rooftop restaurant offering Asian-inspired comfort foods with a contemporary touch. Melbourne-born Chef Duncan McCance, affectionately dubbed “The Beard” for sporting some sexy scruff, loves to get down and dirty and grow his own vegetables in the nearby organic gardens.

The cuisine of Copper highlights this bountiful blessing of the seasonal harvest and locally sourced ingredients with great finesse, fusing indigenous Asian flavours with modern cooking techniques in a way that is subtle, complex and balanced.

The breakfast menu is decadently brunch-inspired with waistline-friendly options: Classic rösti with orange and miso cured salmon, blanched spinach and fried eggs sprinkled with black sesame; honey-drizzled waffle with yuzu parfait, poached apple, matcha-infused rye, date and rosella jam; and sago, coconut and chia pudding tossed with fresh mango and dragon fruit and topped with toasted coconut. Everything is served with house-made sourdough or pastries and your choice of coffee, tea or freshly squeezed juices.

Whether you choose to dine alfresco on the sunbathed patio with white curtains billowing in the balmy breeze or savour your brunch in the airy indoor seating with rice field views, a morning at Copper is nothing short of glorious.

Copper Kitchen, Bar & Rooftop
Bisma Eight
Jalan Bisma, Ubud
Bali, Indonesia
T: (+62) 361 479 2888
www.copperubud.com

Folk Pool & Gardens

From the passionate food creatives behind Copper Kitchen, Bar & Rooftop comes Folk Coffee Bar, the newest kid on the touristy block of Jalan Monkey Forest. Led by Copper’s Chef Duncan McCance, Folk charms with a down-to-earth modern cuisine built upon Duncan’s multi-cultural Australian heritage, effortlessly marrying diverse global flavours with contemporary cooking methods.

Duncan has a natural flair for plating up simple soulful food that lets his homegrown ingredients shine. The rice, chia and coconut pudding with sliced banana, strawberry, tangerine, preserved rosella and fresh mint pays homage to Bali’s seasonal produce.

The poached eggs on fresh-baked sourdough toast with tomatoes, bocconcini and bacon screams brunch, while the soft shell crab burger with coleslaw, wasabi mayo and fresh coriander is a tasty little catch guaranteed to please any crowd.

The standout dish for me is the beetroot-cured salmon with savoury croquette, black sesame fried egg and crunchy lettuce, elevated by a surprise kick from the dried chilli vinaigrette.

The inspiration behind Folk’s unique design philosophy is the curious masyarakat (community) of Gianyar province and the challenges they face as they straddle the traditions of yesterday and the reforms of today.

The longing for simplicity, harmony and a reconnection with nature are reflected in the rugged, patchy local polpolan—painstakingly handmade earth walls—adorned with fitted terracotta light pots and replicas of primitive scratchings.

Folk is a cosy bustling brunch joint that radiates warmth, evokes creativity and delivers heart-warming food. Sit by the people-watching window, sip the special blend from Tetap Happy Coffee Roasters and enjoy your lazy weekday brunch. That’s all, folks!

Folk Pool & Gardens
Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud
Bali, Indonesia
T: (+62) 361 908 0888
www.folkubud.com

Notes:
This article was first published in Foodies — May 2016. 
Photos by Meliana Salim and Chema Calvo unless otherwise stated.

The post But First, Brunch first appeared on Meliana Salim.

When you are young and carefree, you feel as if the world is your oyster. This certainly rang true for French chef Jeremy Blanchet, who relocated to Bali aged 22 upon completing his apprenticeship under Thierry Maffre-Bogé at his one-starred Michelin restaurant La Petite France in Provence. It is in the expansive grounds of Bali Hotel Pearl, a quaint boutique hotel founded by his parents in 2008, that Chef Jeremy began to build his idealistic dream, opening Pearl Restaurant in the heart of Kuta in 2009.

Pearl is a tropical sanctuary infused with French flair and the ubiquitous Balinese charm, offering chic indoor dining and breezy garden terrace seating beneath the starry skies. The 60-seat restaurant serves up refined French classics elevated with Chef Jeremy’s creative touches, integrating local produce and subtle hints of Asian flavours into his dishes.

Start your evening with the succulently grilled scallop wrapped in Parma ham, sitting pretty on light asparagus mousse with a refreshing salad of passion fruit and balsamic vinaigrette. All-time favourite appetizers include tuna tartare, lobster bisque and smoked pan-seared foie gras with caramelized apple.

One of Pearl’s signature mains—and a personal favourite of Chef Jeremy’s—is the salmon confit on lightly sautéed edamame, artichoke, snow peas and slow-cooked fennel, served with kaffir foam and a side of freshly shaved fennel on top of rich, earthy shitake risotto.

It is no secret that Chef Jeremy has a soft spot for the sweeter things in life. His savoury courses often contain a saccharine element of surprise—a slice of candied mandarin here, a smidgen of sweet kaffir lime gel there. His true passion lies in the cool comfort of his “pastry lounge” and it shows. Watching him whip up a decadent assiette gourmande (a selection of mini tasting desserts) of fondant au chocolat, crème brûlée, pannacotta and dark chocolate mousse is like witnessing an authentic love in action; he’s like a kid in a candy store. Pearl is renowned for its indulgent desserts, more than anything else.

Chef Jeremy is a young, spirited culinary artist with endless talents and a contagious love of life. Together with his brother Anthony (who seamlessly shifts between managing the hotel and helping at the restaurant on busy evenings), the dynamic duo has carried on their parents’ legacy beautifully, unleashing their potential and bringing a breath of fresh air into Bali Hotel Pearl and Pearl Restaurant.

Pearl Restaurant
Bali Hotel Pearl
Jl. Arjuna (Double Six)
Kuta, Bali, Indonesia
T: (+62) 81 934 334 060
www.balihotel-pearl.com/balipearlrestaurant

 
 

Notes:
This article was first published in Exquisite Taste, February-April 2015. 
Photos courtesy of Pearl Restaurant. 

The post A Little French Flair in Bali first appeared on Meliana Salim.

Up in the hills of Ubud, amongst the lush grounds of the Blanco Renaissance Museum, a culinary revolution is underway at BLANCO par Mandif, a new restaurant by Indonesia’s award-winning chef and restaurateur of the hugely successful Teatro Gastroteque, Mandif M. Warokka.

I first met Chef Mandif over a year ago when I interviewed him about the opening of his second restaurant, BLANCO par Mandif in Ubud. I left in awe of his passion and respect for Indonesian food as well as his grand ambition to elevate the cuisine of his homeland to a higher plane of gastronomic delight. Days after the hushed opening of BLANCO par Mandif in June 2015, he invited me over for a dinner. Little did I know that I was witnessing an extraordinary culinary renaissance with a signed copy of the menu to take home!

BLANCO par Mandif—the name is inspired by the flamboyant late Spanish artist Antonio Blanco—has boldly served dishes that have never been done by any Indonesian chef or restaurateur. Chef Mandif is an infinitely fascinating man who sees no distinction between life, food and art. While artful Asian-French fusion fare takes centre stage at Teatro Gastroteque, Indonesian heritage haute cuisine reigns the chef’s tasting runway at BLANCO. Let’s have a taste…

Crossing Boundaries
Beyond the opulent wooden space, the bustling open kitchen, the sleek eight-seater chef’s tasting table and the theatrical culinary inventions, a nostalgic sentiment lingers in the air. The highly conceptualized degustation menu, ranging from five to 13 courses, caters to sophisticated palates and reads like a delicious trip down Chef Mandif’s memory lane across the archipelago.

Digging deep into the roots of Indonesian food for customs and traditions, heart-warming recipes from his childhood are dissected, reconstructed and resurrected through innovative ideas, where classical culinary techniques meet modern cooking technology and give birth to elegant plating and refined flavours. Boundaries are crossed and palates challenged, and Indonesian cuisine, as we know it, is reborn.

Innovations aside, this is also where Mother Nature meets haute cuisine. Mandif is so in touch with the earth that he insists on only using the finest seasonal produce ethically sourced from local farmers and quality suppliers—with the exception of a few inevitable imports. Everything is meticulously made from scratch and brought straight from the bountiful nature to the kitchen table.

Alongside his young, equally passionate and patriotic super team, he strives to simply “make people happy” through his culinary articulation and inspire Indonesians to be proud of their food.

Culinary Heritage
Eko Putro—BLANCO’s talented and sassy sommelier-cum-General Manager with a healthy rebellious streak—takes beverage pairing up a notch with his fierce homemade concoctions and aged cocktails matched perfectly to each dish.

Rempeyek, a savoury, ubiquitous Javanese snack of deep fried crackers made from flour, spices and other ingredients is the opening act at BLANCO, re-imagined as crispy spinach, kale and river eel—bred locally by one of the staff. This dish is gracefully balanced on a curious wire sculpture and served with a side of spicy tomato sambal. Accompanied by a citrusy Kintamani cocktail, it makes for a refreshing start to a decadent evening.

Comfort foods are revamped to complex modernist gastronomy, but there is no shyness or compromise on the flavours, textures and tastes. Rajungan—a dish of humble origin—is a hearty soup of roasted corn, shredded crabmeat, sweet onions and lime that is artfully presented in a unique ceramic bowl. I have to say, it is best paired with a cool margarita shaken right in front of you.

The next dish that blows my mind is the Cakalang, a famous dish from North Sulawesi that consists of warm dashi poured over silky house-made noodles. A sumptuous broth is painstakingly prepared with Japanese style katsuobushi or skipjack tuna that has gone through a lengthy process of drying, fermenting and smoking. In the hands of Chef Mandif, it is transformed into a delectable delicacy that evokes nostalgia and provokes interest.

Of course, don’t forget to try the Sambal balado, a tangy staple spicy condiment of West Sumatra. It is the sweet starring sauce of the butter poached tiger prawn, complemented with crispy and notoriously stinky petai beans—off-putting to some but popular among Indonesians. Eko swears by his signature barrel-aged Negroni to bring out the best of this dish.

Dessert is most certainly not an afterthought at BLANCO. Cendol, traditionally a sweet treat of rice flour, palm sugar, coconut milk and green worm-like jelly, is transformed into an exquisite symphony of delicate, colourful jackfruit and pandan spheres, gourmet pandan ice cream, slippery basil seeds soaked in coconut milk and fragrant coconut bubbles floating harmoniously in wedang jahe—a clever twist on the old ginger tea—made with a ginger and lemongrass infused palm sugar reduction. Truth to be told, this is the best cendol and wedang jahe I’ve ever had in my life.

There are soulfulness and an element of playfulness in Chef Mandif’s creations. Alongside his young, equally passionate and patriotic super team, he strives to simply “make people happy” through his culinary articulation and inspire Indonesians to be proud of their food. The BLANCO experience is a fine epicurean ride into the future of Indonesian cuisine. This is one man’s quest to reclaim national pride through a rich culinary heritage that has been globally disregarded for too long. His statement is bold, loud and clear. It’s about time.

 

BLANCO par Mandif
Blanco Renaissance Museum Complex
Jalan Raya Tjampuhan
Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
T: (+62) 361 479 2284
www.blancoparmandif.com
 
 
Notes:
Get to know Chef Mandif M. Warokka: For the Love of Indonesia
This article was first published in Bali & Beyond — February 2016.
Photos by Meliana Salim unless otherwise stated.

The post A Fine New World first appeared on Meliana Salim.

Here’s a question to think about: do you eat to live or live to eat? From Socrates to Buddha, we are guided to eat simply and live modestly, yet for most of us, food is more than mere fuel. “Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are,” wrote French gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. In our society, eating has become an intensely personal experience and an imperative language in the articulation of our identities as individuals, a society, a culture and a nation.

We live in hedonistic times of egocentric consumerism, information obesity and digital overload. This technological revolution has drastically changed our love affair with food and our dining behaviour. The joy of eating is replaced by the obsessive act of documenting it. Dining has become more of a visual experience and less of sensory indulgence. Gadgets and the Internet invade and exploit our mealtimes, turning them into a perpetual state of surveillance and culinary voyeurism.

Human beings are intricately connected with the environment and other life forms, and it is imperative to synchronize ourselves with the world around us. One of the ways is through our relationship with food. In recent years, a fundamental paradigm in the way we eat has shifted. The “farm-to-table” dining concept and the “locavore” and “living foods” movements have evolved from fancy fads and marketing strategy to food aspirations, inspiring us to make informed decisions in how we source, cook and eat our food in pursuit of a sustainable healthier lifestyle.

Raw Food Pioneer
In Bali, straddling the sacred Ayung River near the cultural town of Ubud rests Fivelements. This award-winning eco-luxury wellness destination is built around the traditional Balinese life philosophy of Tri Hita Karana, which promotes living in harmony among humans, with nature and with God.

Nestled within the Fivelements area is its iconic fine dining restaurant, the Sakti Dining Room, a celebrated pioneer of innovative raw food cuisine that has been awarded AsiaSpa’s “Best Spa Cuisine of the Year” for the second year running. A true sanctuary for the senses, this bamboo-structured restaurant sits amidst trickling fountains and lush tropical gardens and is free from smoke, alcohol and stress.

Joining Sakti Dining Room’s green and chemical-free kitchen is a new executive chef, Felix Schoener from Germany. Chef Felix’s impressive resume boasts extensive international experiences in Michelin-starred restaurants and enviable training with Gabriel Cousens and Cherie Soria, both renowned leaders in the fields of living foods and gourmet raw vegan cuisine.

The Signature
“Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food,” is the famous citation by Hippocrates that is written on Sakti Dining Room’s menu, which set the tone for my three-course plant-based lunch from the restaurant’s signature Chef’s Tasting Menu. First came the refreshing Hibiscus Rose, a heaven-sent elixir on a particularly hot and humid day, accompanied by an amuse bouche of creamy cashew pâté infused with coconut milk and garlic.

The appetizer consisted of finely diced mango, tomato and jicama tartar stunningly served on chilled light-as-clouds avocado velouté, topped with micro greens, crunchy tomato chips and finished off with a surprising drizzling of kaffir lime oil. As I was focused on licking my plate clean, I could almost feel my body expressing gratitude for the pure nourishment.

For a corn and mushroom fan like me,  the main course, the Exotic Mushroom and Sweet Corn, was truly a dream come true. It features corn as the star of the dish in three unique ways—curried corn polenta, spiced popcorn and sweet corn crackers—complemented by hearty, smoky shiitake mushrooms, caramelized shallots and a medley of exotic Asian herbs.

The White Chocolate Truffle with passion fruit mousse and tarragon marked a sweet and satisfying ending to my extraordinary lunch. If this was what “healing cuisine” tastes like, I am hooked—mind, body and soul—and ready to join this culinary cult.

All About Balance
Chef Felix’s love of raw living foods and his passion in the ancient philosophies of Ayurveda and Chinese Medicine are beautifully portrayed in each dish. Embracing local, seasonal, organic and wild foraged ingredients, he has perfected the art of applying ageless Asian wisdom in his avant-garde, modernist cuisine, marrying it with Balinese culture and tradition and elevating it with innovative culinary techniques. “It’s mother nature’s cuisine,” he stated.

The Sakti Dining Room is a true sanctuary for the senses and has created a way for people to connect with the food they eat through its inventive gastronomy revolution. It is true that embracing raw food allows people to experience a whole new world with a new vision—to feel healthier, see more clearly and think more positively.

Personally, I’m a believer of renowned food writer Michael Pollan’s simple and healthy attitude towards eating, “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” After all, life is all about balance, isn’t it?



Fivelements
Puri Ahimsa, Banjar Baturning
Mambal, Bali, Indonesia
T: (+62) 361 469 260
www.fivelements.org



Notes:
This article was first published in Bali & Beyond — January 2016.
Slideshow photos courtesy of Fivelements.
Food photos by Meliana Salim.

The post The Elements of Life first appeared on Meliana Salim.

A freshly brewed cup of coffee is more than just a daily pleasure, it’s a way of life. And the art of drinking coffee is just as important as the science of brewing the perfect cup. Coffee is a powerful and complex stimulant that continues to play an integral role in our political, social, economic and environmental development. Some even claim that it’s a character-defining beverage: you are what you drink.

In Bali, Ubud’s thriving café culture is extensive. Mom-and-pop coffee shops and specialty roasters offer tantalising signature house blends and single origins, encouraging us to be adventurous with their tales of exotic, far-flung cherries and indigenous beans.

Follow my coffee chronicles as I sip my way around town and spill the beans on the best little-known artisan coffees in Ubud.

Juria House

Juria House (Jalan Sugriwa 5) is an unexpected hole-in-the-wall coffee corner in Ubud, quietly steeping the world’s rarest high-grade Arabica from a very special single variety coffee grown in Flores. These coffee trees are descendants of an old, rare Typica species of Arabica coffee of Ethiopian origin, and are survivors of the coffee rust epidemics. They were hidden deep in the mountains of Manggarai for over 60 years, until being recently rediscovered and resurrected.

Juria coffee has a strong, aromatic body, intricate layers of sweet tropical flavours, subtle spice notes, a lingering finish and a fascinating story to boot. Join the noble quest to save the remaining old Typica trees and preserve Juria’s lineage. For more information, follow the Facebook pages: Save the Old Coffee Trees and Juria Coffee.

Kahiyang Coffee

Meet Sumatran-born Iwan Raus, a passionate coffee roaster and owner of Kahiyang Coffee (Jalan Sri Wedari 6), who also has a penchant for storytelling. Raus firmly believes that there is a different coffee for each day. Choose from Kahiyang’s locally sourced Fair Trade Arabica coffee beans (20 per cent of Kahiyang’s profits goes to the farmers), Bali’s Kintamani, Java’s Prianger and Papua’s Wamena. Asep, the self-dubbed “YouTube Barista”, will brew you a fresh, customised coffee to match your mood on any day.

Kahiyang’s coffee beans are roasted in-house every morning. Early risers are invited to a free roasting lesson. Kahiyang Coffee is one of those hidden spots you are reluctant to tell others about. There are no tourists, hipsters, spiritual seekers and Wi-Fi freeloaders here. We are safe, for now.

A little tip from an insider: Kahiyang also supplies coffee beans to Ubud’s only drive-thru coffee-stand/art-gallery on Jalan Hanoman. It’s cheekily concealed with the resident artist’s vibrant paintings.

Café Vespa

Wake up and catch the arresting smell of coffee wafting from Cafe Vespa (Jalan Raya Penestanan Kaja), a popular expat hangout serving some of Ubud’s best coffees and food. Owner Neil is proud of his artisan coffee, and rightfully so, since he’s mastered the perfect blend using 100 per cent Arabica coffee sourced from Toraja in Sulawesi, Gayo in Aceh, and Kintamani in Bali. The beans are roasted weekly according to Neil’s strict standards and are ground fresh before serving.

Pair Vespa’s exquisite espresso with the best-selling Spinach and Mushroom for a wholesome breakfast. Spy on wacky post-modern hippy fashion and eavesdrop on the most bizarre conversations in town.

F.R.E.A.K. Coffee

Blink and you might miss inconspicuous F.R.E.A.K. Coffee (Jalan Hanoman 19). The quirky name is an acronym of Fresh Roasted “Enak” (delicious in Indonesian) Arabica from Kintamani. F.R.E.A.K Coffee’s philosophy is “from the cherries to the cup”, and 100-per-cent organically grown Arabica from Kintamani is roasted fresh daily and served within 24 hours at the café.

The café boasts an extensive coffee menu and small bites (mostly organic, raw and vegan) catering to discerning coffee freaks and health nuts. Mingle with F.R.E.A.K.’s cult following–-dreadlocked locals, glowing yogis and effete hipsters–-as you sip and watch the town go by.

Rio Helmi Gallery & Café

A few steps away from the gridlocked Ubud Palace intersection, the Rio Helmi Gallery & Cafe (Jalan Suweta 24A) is a cool respite from the throngs of tourists and their selfie sticks.

Rio Helmi, the articulate owner/photographer, is very particular about his coffee. His signature blend comes from Aceh, Bali and Brazil. Try the rich caffè mocha, available upon request, which packs enough punch to jumpstart the grouchiest customer. A sprinkle of paprika and salt is added for depth, I later discovered.

This bright air-conditioned café also offers an all-day Mediterranean-inspired breakfast and brunch menu (I recommend the shakshouka). Come for the smooth lattes and hearty food and enjoy Rio’s captured memories across Asia.

Casa Luna

Strategically located in central Ubud, Casa Luna (Jalan Raya Ubud) was started more than 20 years ago by Australian writer/restaurateur/wonder woman and founder of the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival and the Ubud Food Festival, Janet DeNeefe.

The full-bodied house blend, brewed using 100-per-cent premium Indonesian beans, is earthy and velvety smooth. Ask Made Taman to whip up the legendary cappuccino and order a slice of cake from the Honeymoon Bakery – best savoured while people-watching from the comfort of your front-row seat.

Petani Restaurant

Petani Restaurant (Alaya Ubud, Jalan Hanoman) boasts single-origin beans from Aromanis, Enrekang in Toraja and Singaraja in Bali, which are processed using the extravagant La Marzocco FB/70.

Sometimes you just want a cup of latte art to show off on social media. Petani’s talented baristas think outside the cup when it comes to their coffee art, be it the Coconut Flakes Cappuccino, Red Velvet Latte, Salted Caramel Cappuccino or Matcha Latte. Bring your friends and have a leisurely latte-tasting afternoon.

Kopi Luwak: Cut the Crap!

Indonesia’s kopi luwak, or civet coffee, is the world’s priciest and most controversial coffee. These unusual beans are collected from the excrement of wild luwak, or Asian palm civets, after having passed through the animals’ digestive tracts. The result is a smooth, earthy brew.

The escalating global demand for these highly prized (and hyped) beans has resulted in the widespread illegal trapping and force-feeding of these wild civets. The only way to ensure that the beans are genuine and harvested ethically is to follow the farmers and civets around in the forest all night. I say cut the crap and leave those civets alone. Honestly, the taste does not justify the animal cruelty.

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Dos:

• Buy fresh whole coffee beans (not grounds) from a reputable local roaster and use within a week. Store it in a dark, airtight container at room temperature and grind your beans right before you brew them.
• Invest in good coffee grinding and brewing equipment and regulate the grind size according to the brewing method. Use filtered water and keep the temperature between 195°F (91°C) to 205°F (96°C). Clean your coffee equipment thoroughly after each use.
• Develop your palate; start by drinking unadulterated coffee. Additions such as sugar, milk and flavourings affect the texture and aroma of coffees, tainting the actual taste.

Don’ts:

• Ask for your coffee to go and rush around town holding it. Take the time to sit down and appreciate your fresh brew. It’s worth it.
• Buy poorly packaged coffee beans or grounds. Check for scratches or tears in the packaging. If air gets into the bag, the coffee will go stale immediately. Ground coffee should have a valve in the bag to let air out.
• Let coffee snobs get to you. Whether you are a slow-sipping espresso connoisseur or a morning java gulper, all that matters is your own personal preference.

Notes:

This article was published in hellobali — November 2015.

Photos by Meliana Salim unless otherwise stated.

The post A Toast to Ubud’s Best Roast first appeared on Meliana Salim.

There is always that one evocative summer that changes you: the lingering memories of a sweet romance; long gourmet brunches with great friends; endless sun-drenched afternoons celebrating the pure joy of doing absolutely nothing—and what better place to enjoy summertime feasting and living than at the newly opened Jungle Fish in Ubud?

Summer seduces with a dose of escapism; inspiring a rediscovery of the pleasure of food, a reality uncheck, an urban detox and a time to rekindle romance, kinship and friendship. The tans will fade but the memories will last forever.

Take the culinary road less travelled across Bali and head to the hills above Ubud to the Chapung Sebali Resort & Spa in the traditional artists’ village of Keliki. The resort itself has been a well-kept secret retreat to those in the know for many years. Thanks to the recent buzz surrounding the unveiling of Jungle Fish, now everyone is flocking to this chic restaurant, pool, deck and bar.

Sitting stylishly on the side of a mountain overlooking the Osh River Valley, the split-level Jungle Fish embodies the eccentricity and eclecticism of its Danish owner, Niki Nasr, a charming, mysterious furniture designer and a long-term resident of Bali.

Together with his Australian architect friend Rob Sample, Nasr took inspiration from the surrounding natural beauty and combined it with a modern, edgy mid-century Scandinavian design, the warm elegance of Balinese aesthetics and his sleek signature style.

Georgios of the Jungle
The contemporary Mediterranean menu of Jungle Fish, crafted by Greek Executive Chef, Georgios Giannoulis, evokes the spirit of the sun-kissed region, where cuisine is a philosophy and the art of eating is a palpable passion embraced by all.

Having access to extensive organic gardens scattered throughout the estate is an enviable luxury for any cook, and Giannoulis is one lucky chef! Fresh, home-grown, organic vegetables, aromatic herbs and basmati rice are right on his doorstep—an advantage he takes fully, transforming nature’s bounty into his vibrant, seasonal menu.

It is easy to be charmed by Giannoulis’ colourful dishes, as each one of them is his personal culinary journey of respectfully marrying robust Mediterranean essences with bold Asian flavours and locally sourced premium ingredients.

Summer is for feasting, and feast we did, starting with the succulent grilled octopus (the chef’s favourite dish) chargrilled to perfection to bring out the sweetness of the delicate meat, and marinated with lemon, oregano and Pernod sauce. The calamari, the ultimate crowd pleaser, is light, crispy and served with a fiery harissa mayo dip.

The Greek salad is a summer classic best savoured sitting on the sunny terrace and taking in the spectacular view. Giannoulis’ version boasts the freshest tomatoes, cucumber, onions and herbs from the gardens with capers, olives and creamy feta cheese mousse.

My personal favourite is the roasted beetroot salad with goat cheese brûlée, orange, onions, watercress and toasted hazelnuts—a timeless combination that lets the beetroot’s sweet depth and earthiness shine through. It’s definitely a salad with a wow factor.

The chicken with lemon-herb pesto, presented with a side of pretty purple potato salad, is one of the most memorable poultry dishes I’ve ever had. Tender, juicy and subtly spiced, it’s sophisticated in its simplicity. If you’re craving for something from the sea, opt for the white snapper served with an elegant fennel salad, couscous and bumbu Bali—a tasty concoction of traditional Balinese spices.

No feast is complete without a sweet treat. Giannoulis tantalises with his signature dessert: the chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice cream and diced mangoes—a perfectly sweet ending to a delightful meal fit for the Greek gods.

The Jungle Star
The undeniable star of Jungle Fish is, as the name cleverly implies, its 35-metre infinity pool at the lower level, facing the lush green ravine. Who needs the sand and the sea when you can listen to nature’s living orchestra? For a fee of IDR 150,000 net per person (fully redeemable for food and beverage), non-hotel-guests can soak up the Bali sun in one of the Jungle Fish’s cool cabanas or lively sun loungers, take a dip in the swimming pool, sip fun cocktails and have an evening picnic barbecue or enjoy the Sunday brunch in style.

Inspired by the ocean, the highlight of the impressive bar area is a floor-to-ceiling recycled glass mosaic meticulously designed by Niki Nasr. The pool deck interiors feature a volcanic rock backwash and dark ironwood enlivened by the colourful, striped daybeds and a crimson-lit wooden ceiling. Forget the beach club, the true style is in the jungle!

Summer seduces with a dose of escapism; inspiring a rediscovery of the pleasure of food, a reality uncheck, an urban detox and a time to rekindle romance, kinship and friendship. The tans will fade but the memories will last forever.


Jungle Fish
Chapung Sebali Resort & Spa
Jalan Raya Sebali, Keliki, Ubud
T: (+62) 361 898 9104
www.junglefishbali.com


Notes:
This article was first published in Bali & Beyond — August 2015.
Photos courtesy of Jungle Fish.
Food photos by Meliana Salim.

The post Welcome to the Jungle! first appeared on Meliana Salim.

Never one to shy away from innovating and experimenting, Gelato Secrets is ecstatic to be the first to introduce bamboo charcoal gelato in Indonesia. Taking the culinary world by storm, the bizarrely edible bamboo charcoal has hit the bakeries and kitchens of Singapore, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Taiwan, the Philippines, Australia and the USA and is spreading like wildfire worldwide.

Bamboo charcoal, also known as takesumi in Japan, has been used for centuries in the East, with a long history dating as far back as 1486 AD during the Ming Dynasty in China. This form of activated charcoal is produced by burning bamboo plants five years or older in an oven at a temperature of over 800°C. In its charcoal state, it is delicate yet heavy, porous and full of minerals, making it at least ten times stronger than any other charcoal.

The age-old tradition of making artisanal Italian gelato is as much an art as it is a science. This Italian version of ice cream contains less sugar, less fat and less air, which generates a stronger flavour than normal ice cream. Inspired by their childhood memories and a shared love for gelato, Maria Indah and Gregory Carlo Lentini, founders of Gelato Secrets, first brought this wonderful classic Italian treat to Bali with their inaugural gelato shop in Ubud in 2009. Since then, they have dedicated their lives to creating the most exquisite gelato and sorbetto on the island.

Their gelato secret is simple: they use only 100% natural, fresh ingredients from carefully selected suppliers, free from artificial flavouring, colouring and preservatives, comprising both Italian classics and exotic Indonesian flavours derived from seasonal local fruits, spices and desserts. They highlight these premium ingredients in their innovative, avant-garde recipes with their signature twist, lovingly recreated from authentic Italian recipes, meticulously crafted by expert artisan hands to achieve the purest of flavours, allowing the natural essence of each ingredient to shine through. The proof is in each exquisitely creamy scoop balanced on their yummy homemade waffle cone (or in a cup).

Since bamboo charcoal itself is flavourless, Gelato Secrets has sourced the best vanilla beans in Indonesia to highlight Asia’s famous magic detox powder and created the Organic Sulawesi Vanilla and Bamboo Charcoal Gelato from their Secrets Studio in Bali. The result: a delectable, healthy and innovative gelato that is bursting with the sweet aroma of vanilla and an interesting, unique texture.

Dubbed the “black diamond”, bamboo charcoal holds many benefits including absorbing air pollutants, deodorizing, purifying drinking water, adjusting humidity, guarding against magnetic waves and ultra infrared rays, curing food poisoning, reducing intestinal gases, detoxifying the body, promoting metabolism and blood circulation, lowering cholesterol levels and even preventing hangovers! It absorbs toxins from various organisms, takes the load off the liver and kidneys and thus acts in an anti-ageing fashion. It is widely applied in food, cosmetics, spa, clothing and household and lifestyle products.

Gelato Secrets has an extensive collection of gelato and sorbetto flavours with new innovations every month in their shops in Ubud, Sanur and Seminyak. Delicious, wholesome and creative, consumers are taken on an exquisite sweet journey with their original homemade gelato and non-dairy sorbetto. Savour favourites such as Chocolate Valrhona, Salted Butter Caramel, Coconut Pandan, Guava Strawberry, Passion Fruit, Chocolate Chili and Ispahan or be among the adventurous first to try the Organic Sulawesi Vanilla and Bamboo Charcoal Gelato in their shops in Ubud, Sanur, Seminyak and Jimbaran in Bali!

Gelato Secrets
Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud, Bali
Jalan Raya Ubud, Ubud, Bali
Jalan Danau Tamblingan, Sanur, Bali
Jalan Raya Petitenget, Seminyak, Bali
www.facebook.com/gelatosecrets

Photos by Meliana Salim.

The post Black is Back: The Secrets of Bamboo Charcoal first appeared on Meliana Salim.

Wake up to the rooster’s crow, catch the first rays of sunlight piercing through lush forests, caress the sparkling morning dews on the rice paddies, watch the town come alive and the locals go about their rituals… Ubud is a heaven on earth for travellers, a healing pit stop for wounded souls and a safe home to many hopeful dreamers. Let us take you to its heart; feel its pulsating core, leave a little love behind and take a piece of its magic with you.

1. The Early Bird Catches the Locals

Tourists go to the Ubud Market to hunt for souvenirs. Travellers know better and wake up early to mingle and haggle with the natives for fresh produce and local treats. Head to the Ubud Market before 9 AM and embrace the hustle and bustle of an authentic Balinese bazaar. Don’t forget to bring your camera to capture those only-in-Bali moments.

2. Spice Up Your Morning

Some Balinese breakfast dishes are not for the faint-hearted. The traditional ayam betutu—a generously seasoned and spiced 24-hour slow-roasted chicken dish—is a popular morning meal in Bali. The best in Ubud is at Betutu Ayam Pak Sanur tucked in the centre of town. Your stomach might resent you for the initial spicy shock but if you are lucky enough to meet Pak Sanur, the lovely man behind the one-and-only dish, allow him to charm you with his stories. Go before 10 AM to avoid disappointment; they cater to the royal families and are often sold out by late morning.

3. When in Ubud…

Use your time in Ubud to gain an understanding of the Balinese culture, learn some basic Indonesian words or pick up a new artistic skill. With over 30,000 books in more than 10 languages, Pondok Pekak Library & Learning Centre is a non-profit sanctuary in the centre of Ubud that provides a comfortable, creative space to explore Indonesian and Balinese classes in language, dance, music and arts and crafts.

4. The Motorcycle Diaries

Assuming you are an experienced rider with a valid license and a solid helmet, Ubud and its surroundings are best explored on a motorbike. Follow our scenic off-the-beaten-track road-trip routes:

• The north road towards the Elephant Safari Park in Taro is a long, beautiful stretch of endless rice fields and terraces, stunning mountain range and sweet little villages.
• Riding approximately 10 km north of Jalan Andong, you will be greeted with the jaw-dropping Tegallalang rice terraces (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). On your way back into town, be adventurous and explore the numerous winding side roads, passing through local artisans’ villages.
• Work up a little sweat and head north of Kedewatan, make a left at the sign for Black Penny Villas, park, follow the steep steps down leading to vast rice fields and join the locals for a cool dip in the Ayung River. Watch out for rafting traffic!

5. The Green Guerrillas

Support Bali’s green pioneers and initiatives through a unique half-day tour of Green Village, PT Bamboo Pure and Green School, located 30 minutes south of Ubud. See how humble blades of grass are transformed into bespoke bamboo homes at Green Village and unconventional eco-architecture and designs at the world-famous Green School, and learn about the whole process at PT Bamboo Pure. Check website www.greenvillagebali.com to book a tour.

6. For the Love of Bali Dogs

In Bali, you cannot cross the street without bumping into a street dog. As adorable as they are, the reproduction of these dogs is spiralling out of control. Many are destined to suffer from abuse, neglect, consumption, diseases or euthanasia due to lack of a loving home.

Help to improve the wellbeing of Bali’s animals by donating to Bali Pet Crusaders—a non-profit, locally run organization and a registered Australian charity on a noble mission to tackle the overpopulation of stray animals on the island through free sterilization of pets and strays and community education and engagement. A little donation goes a long way. For a more hands-on experience, visit Bali Dog Adoption and Rehabilitation Centre and volunteer to play with or walk the dogs.

7. A Cup of Java

Rio Helmi Gallery & Café is a roomy, light-filled gallery-cum-café run by the eponymous Indonesian photographer, writer and one of Ubud’s iconic residents. Drop by for a stimulating conversation with Rio over his punchy coffee. Rio has spent almost four decades in Ubud and travelled extensively across Asia, capturing unique images that are now immortalized in his gallery. He also leads Ubud Now & Then, an interesting website packed with the latest info on Ubud now and Ubud as it used to be.

8. Up the Lovers’ Lane

Imagine a traffic-free paved path with panoramic views of rolling hills, lush forests, rice fields, volcanoes and a river gorge. This is Campuhan Ridge, more commonly known among the locals as Bukit Cinta (Love Hill). Come for sunset and you’ll see why. Frisky Balinese teenagers stroll up and down the scenic path, dressed to impress in their heels and skinny jeans or doused in heavy cologne with a kretek in hand, giggling and flirting away or love-struck and cuddled up on the grassy hills. Ah, to be young again!

9. The Ubud Hipsters and Twisters

Get on the digital nomad bandwagon. Whether you like it or not, Ubud is changing and embracing a new generation of hipsters and twisters, creatives and techies, entrepreneurs and socialpreneurs—all buzzing, tapping and Bitcoining away at Hubud [Hub-in-Ubud], an über-popular collaborative working space where its thriving members are cramped into a hot and crowded (but sustainable) bamboo building.

10. Monkey See, Monkey Do

If you must see the notoriously cheeky monkeys of Ubud, we recommend skipping those lazy, obese macaques in the heart of town for a guided leisurely stroll in the serenity of Sangeh Holy Monkey Forest, a 30-minute drive from Ubud. The lesser-known haven is the biggest and the first monkey forest in Bali and home to 14 hectares of homogeneous pala (nutmeg) trees, three families of over 600 monkeys and the Pura Bukit Sari Sangeh—a mossy 17^th-century Hindu temple from the Mengwi Kingdom.

Notes:
This article was first published in Ubud Life — June-August 2015.
Photos by Meliana Salim unless otherwise stated.

The post Ubud’s Top 10 first appeared on Meliana Salim.

It’s raining chefs in the lush hills of Ubud, Bali. Asia’s beloved Street Food Chef, Will Meyrick, has transported his “chef-in-crime” Palm Amatawet, together with Chef Tim Bartholomew, to the kitchen of Hujan Locale, his latest culinary baby in the centre of town.

Chef Will Meyrick lives, breathes and eats street food and there is no better chef to bring Indonesia’s diverse cultures together through cuisine. We checked in with The Street Food Chef at the newly opened Hujan Locale while waiting out the torrential rain.

Q: What brought about your fifth restaurant, Hujan Locale?

A: We are working closely with local farmers, honouring the relationship. Hujan is all about that. Apart from that, I see that Bali is now saturated with Asian cuisine. Hujan is the manifestation of my desire to come back to my roots. Yes, we have Asian dishes on the menu for lunch, but we also offer hearty European comfort food for dinner.

Q: How did you decide on the found-and-foraged concept?

A: This is one of the things we want to develop to honour the farmers we work with. We see their lives every day and they inspire us. It’s about using what is available around you. In this case, we are trying to use local ingredients that are not used all that much and what is available locally, rather than getting imported ingredients. We really wish we could go local completely. We use the produce from our own livestock farm, but the demands of tourism still force us to substitute imported ingredients.

Q: Tell us more about your relationship with the local farmers.

A: The farm we have in Jatiluwih is run and managed by local farmers. We supervise and educate them. It has been fun. We support each other. Now we have pigs and chickens in our farm. I hope in the near future we can develop the farm further with them.

Q: What makes Hujan Locale unique?

A: The design of the interior has a light and airy feel. The overall concept is to make you feel like you are in the countryside. You can see botanical ingredient prints on the plates, as well as the enamel plates that remind me of those used by farmers at their homes during my childhood in ‘70s and ‘80s. And of course the food itself, you’ll find some classic dishes like gentleman’s relish: homemade blood pudding and bread-and-butter pudding, which I used to have at home when I was a child.

Q: What do diners need to try when they visit Hujan Locale?

A: The wood-roasted bone marrow, the pork cutlets and the bread-and-butter pudding.

Q: Please share with us your most memorable Hujan Locale moment.

A: What I love about Balinese culture is that anyone can join in their religious ceremonies. Just before we opened Hujan, we had the blessing ceremony and I was sitting there with my mom, my wife and my children, also Wayan the owner of the restaurant and all the staff, including the Muslim and Christian ones. It was amazing!

Q: Now that you’re spending more time in Ubud, what have you discovered about the town?

A: Ubud is very small. Everybody knows everybody. There’s a bigger chunk of international market here compared to Seminyak. Hence, we created an Asian lunch menu, a Western dinner menu, as well as Spanish pizzas. So the restaurant has something for everybody—a little quirk you cannot find in other restaurants.

Q: What do you collect?

A: Cameras and applications, also gadgets.

Q: What is your all-time most memorable meal?

A: I’ll never forget the taste of the bats and rats I had in Sulawesi.

Q: What is your secret culinary weapon?

A: A griddle plate.

Q: What are you most proud of in your professional life?

A: The growth of my staff.

Q: What else is up your chef’s sleeve?

A: We are opening another Mama San in Kuala Lumpur this year and two more restaurants in Bali. I have a goal of growing the business until I’m 40—that’s one and a half years away. Then I will focus on working with farmers and growing the culture side of the food, together with the local as well as international communities.

Q: What is your favourite rainy-day activity?

A: Cooking at home with my children.

On 2nd February at a special wine dinner at Cut Catch Cucina, Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort’s signature restaurant, we had the pleasure of meeting Etienne Hugel, a 12th-generation torchbearer of the family-owned Hugel & Fils, a pioneering winemaker in the small French region of Alsace.

Established in 1639, Hugel rose to fame during the 18th and 19th centuries for their winegrowing skills and for the uncompromising way in which they cultivated their vineyards. Bringing with him the cherished, distinctive yellow bottles of 1639 Gewürztraminer and Riesling, the jovial Etienne shared his family’s winegrowing passion over a tasting session on the Cut Catch Cucina terrace.

At a delectable dinner prepared by Chef de Cuisine Maxie Millian following the wine tasting, two of the dishes on our degustation menu were paired with Hugel’s fine wines. The 2009 Gewürztraminer is strong, spicy and fruity, a perfect accompaniment to the decadent entrée: pan-seared foie gras sprinkled with spiced brioche and raisin crumble, foie gras dust and caramel walnuts, finished with dollops of apple purée and star anise orange jus.

The next dish, a succulent butter-poached lobster tail with squid ink tagliolini, red pepper marmalade and bisque emulsion topped with a seaweed crisp, was balanced with the elegant Hugel 2012 Riesling, a dry wine with great finesse, often paired with Alsace’s seafood specialties.

The golden rule of the Hugel family is that “the wine is already in the grape.” Alsace, being the driest wine region in France, has a climate that allows grapes to ripen slowly to full maturity, resulting in aromatic wines with an unparalleled intensity. In Hugel’s unique production process, all grapes are handpicked and, instead of pumping, the presses are filled by gravity. After slow crushing, only the first part of the juice is preserved to merit the famous yellow label.

At Hugel, the art of winemaking has been passed down through generations of wine growers and wine merchants, from father to son, since 1639. The Hugel family is on a mission to resurrect Alsatian wines and regain the reputation and prestige they enjoyed when the family business was founded.

www.hugel.com
www.sofitel-bali-nusadua.com

Notes:
This article was first published in Asia Dreams, March-April 2015.
Photos courtesy of Hugel & Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort.

The post The Pride of Alsace first appeared on Meliana Salim.