All year round, Bali smells of incense and offerings, flowers and spices, coffee and tobacco, as well as scooter exhaust, trash burning, rice straw smoke and wet earth. It’s a part of my everyday life, and it’s distinctly Bali.

This year marks my 10^th anniversary of living in Bali. The island has witnessed my heartbreaks and healings, empathised with my failures and frustrations, and given me love, confidence and a sense of identity. We have a strong bond, and I would like to pay homage to Bali and celebrate our decade-long relationship. The question is: How do I capture my love affair with Bali?

Along came Nora Gasparini, a stunning Martinique native and passionate founder of L’Atelier Parfums et Créations at The Ritz-Carlton, Bali in Nusa Dua. During a visit to Bali, the perfume connoisseur fell in love with the island and its wondrous scents, so she decided to stay and explore her obsession with perfumery and Indonesia through the establishment of her perfume studio in 2010.

“I don’t have a passion for perfume. I have a passion for scents.”

At L’Atelier Parfums et Créations, customers from all over the world come to create their own scents and learn about the raw materials of Indonesia. It’s a brilliant idea as people are constantly looking for creative ways to express themselves. I have always been scent conscious and the thought of encapsulating my memories of Bali in a perfume bottle excites me.

Stepping into L’Atelier Parfums et Créations, I was warmly greeted by Nora and her friendly team who then led to my workstation for the 90-minute perfume creation workshop. Nora is the epitome of a sophisticated modern woman with her timeless beauty, effortless elegance and entrepreneurial spirit.

“This is the workplace of a perfumer at a much smaller scale. Inside, you will find all the notes that we like to work with,” she began. “There are three sets of notes in a perfume; top notes, middle notes and base notes. These are the layers that a perfume has to have for a harmonious scent.”

The workstations consist of large teakwood tables paired with Phillippe Starck-inspired Louis Ghost armchairs, each personalised with the studio’s logo. The space is contemporary: modern innovation combined with history and traditions with a touch of whimsy. Little amber glass vials of essential oils were neatly arranged on narrow white shelves.

“The top notes are the first scents that hit your nose sharply when you apply the perfume. They have lighter molecules, which evaporate within 15 minutes. These opening notes give freshness to the perfume and seduce people to buy it. Usually, we use citruses, sea breeze and all the delicate scents,” Nora elaborated.

“The middle notes are the main body of the perfume with average intensity and longevity. This is where you find pleasant smells like flowers and spices. The base notes are the dry down of the perfume. They are low in intensity but high in longevity—the longest being benzoin, which comes from tree sap. It can last on your skin for up to four days if you don’t take a shower!” she laughed.

Scent of a Woman

There was a short questionnaire for me to fill in before I began. “This is to help me get an idea of the type of perfume that suits you,” she said. “Name one of your favourite perfumes”, read the first question. “Eternity,” I muttered under my breath.

A flood of vivid memories came rushing in and transported me back to the ‘80s. Sitting on my parents’ bed, I would watch my mother get ready for a romantic night out. She would dress to the nines but wear no makeup, except lipstick. For the final touch, she would spray on her signature fragrance, “Eternity” by Calvin Klein, a gift from my father. The luxurious scent would linger, comforting my siblings and me long after she and my father left the house.

A few years later, she gave me my first perfume, “Eternity”, to mark my teenhood. I wore the elegant scent into my early twenties, carrying her with me with each precious spritz as I moved from Indonesia to Singapore, Canada and back.

Is “Eternity” one of my favourite perfumes? It certainly evokes a wistful nostalgia for my childhood. French writer Marcel Proust called it “odour-evoked autobiographical memory” or the Proust phenomenon, where the act of dipping his madeleine cookie into a cup of tea had unlocked his forgotten childhood memories.

Upon completing the mini personality test, Nora tallied my score and categorised me as “Zen” and “Mysterious”. “Zen is soft, citrusy and aquatic, like the smell of the sea. Mysterious is the complete opposite. It is woody, resinous and intense. You’ll have to find the balance between the two,” she smiled. An astrologer once told me that my life goal is “to seek absolute freedom and total security”. I’m sensing a pattern here.

“I don’t have a passion for perfume,” Nora claimed. “I have a passion for scents. My husband has a better sense of smell but I am better at blending and training.” Based on the two categories, Nora guided me through the art of perfumery and some of the 44 fragrance notes—a combination of natural and synthetic aromatics, 80 percent of which are sourced in Indonesia.

Scents and Sensibility

I wanted my ode-to-Bali perfume to include strong notes of frangipani, champaka and jasmine—Bali’s ubiquitous flowers. During the following hour and a half, I carefully smelled, squeezed and selected the notes, adding and subtracting numbers and creating various combinations that would lead to three different perfume testers. The possibilities are infinite. I could do this all day!

“The first tester is a warm-up to see how all the aromatic components blend together. The final smell is already there but the molecules are fighting with each other, so the smell has not yet settled,” explained Nora as she gently dabbed some on the scent strips and on our forearms. It was too powdery for me; I couldn’t detect the floral notes.

For the second tester, eau de toilette, Nora recommended reducing the notes I wasn’t so fond of, like aldehydes, and increasing the ones I loved, highlighting fresher ones such as aquatic, lemon, frangipani and lotus. I was pleased with the blend: floral, sweet and delicate.

The final vial was for the eau de parfum, which emphasised heavier base notes such as white musk and fougère. White musk is a synthetic aromatic created to ethically replace the original musk, a pungent odour derived from a rectal gland of the endangered Himalayan male musk deer. It certainly did not smell like my Bali.

A Moment in Time

It was decided—the standout formula was the eau de toilette. The last step was naming my new 30 ml baby. “A Moment in Time” resonated with me—a fragrance of my endearing romance with Bali. It opens with fresh lemon, oceanic breeze and dreamy lavender as top notes, unleashes a sweet floral aroma encompassing frangipani, champaka and jasmine, and slowly releases a deep rhythm of herbaceous fougère and clean white musk.

“Now, you have to wait around three weeks before you can use your perfume. This is to ensure that the maceration process is complete and the scents and essences are of the highest quality,” Nora stated as she presented my very first signature perfume, “A Moment in Time”, dedicated to my Bali with love.

L’Atelier Parfums et Créations
The Ritz-Carlton, Bali
Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan Lot#3
Sawangan, Nusa Dua, Bali
Tel:  +62 361 849 8988 ext. 3941
info@parfumsetcreations.com
www.perfumeworkshops.com
 
 
Notes:
This article was first published in Bali & Beyond — February 2017.
Photos by Meliana Salim unless otherwise stated.

The post Love Notes from Bali first appeared on Meliana Salim.

When you are young and carefree, you feel as if the world is your oyster. This certainly rang true for French chef Jeremy Blanchet, who relocated to Bali aged 22 upon completing his apprenticeship under Thierry Maffre-Bogé at his one-starred Michelin restaurant La Petite France in Provence. It is in the expansive grounds of Bali Hotel Pearl, a quaint boutique hotel founded by his parents in 2008, that Chef Jeremy began to build his idealistic dream, opening Pearl Restaurant in the heart of Kuta in 2009.

Pearl is a tropical sanctuary infused with French flair and the ubiquitous Balinese charm, offering chic indoor dining and breezy garden terrace seating beneath the starry skies. The 60-seat restaurant serves up refined French classics elevated with Chef Jeremy’s creative touches, integrating local produce and subtle hints of Asian flavours into his dishes.

Start your evening with the succulently grilled scallop wrapped in Parma ham, sitting pretty on light asparagus mousse with a refreshing salad of passion fruit and balsamic vinaigrette. All-time favourite appetizers include tuna tartare, lobster bisque and smoked pan-seared foie gras with caramelized apple.

One of Pearl’s signature mains—and a personal favourite of Chef Jeremy’s—is the salmon confit on lightly sautéed edamame, artichoke, snow peas and slow-cooked fennel, served with kaffir foam and a side of freshly shaved fennel on top of rich, earthy shitake risotto.

It is no secret that Chef Jeremy has a soft spot for the sweeter things in life. His savoury courses often contain a saccharine element of surprise—a slice of candied mandarin here, a smidgen of sweet kaffir lime gel there. His true passion lies in the cool comfort of his “pastry lounge” and it shows. Watching him whip up a decadent assiette gourmande (a selection of mini tasting desserts) of fondant au chocolat, crème brûlée, pannacotta and dark chocolate mousse is like witnessing an authentic love in action; he’s like a kid in a candy store. Pearl is renowned for its indulgent desserts, more than anything else.

Chef Jeremy is a young, spirited culinary artist with endless talents and a contagious love of life. Together with his brother Anthony (who seamlessly shifts between managing the hotel and helping at the restaurant on busy evenings), the dynamic duo has carried on their parents’ legacy beautifully, unleashing their potential and bringing a breath of fresh air into Bali Hotel Pearl and Pearl Restaurant.

Pearl Restaurant
Bali Hotel Pearl
Jl. Arjuna (Double Six)
Kuta, Bali, Indonesia
T: (+62) 81 934 334 060
www.balihotel-pearl.com/balipearlrestaurant

 
 

Notes:
This article was first published in Exquisite Taste, February-April 2015. 
Photos courtesy of Pearl Restaurant. 

The post A Little French Flair in Bali first appeared on Meliana Salim.

Up in the hills of Ubud, amongst the lush grounds of the Blanco Renaissance Museum, a culinary revolution is underway at BLANCO par Mandif, a new restaurant by Indonesia’s award-winning chef and restaurateur of the hugely successful Teatro Gastroteque, Mandif M. Warokka.

I first met Chef Mandif over a year ago when I interviewed him about the opening of his second restaurant, BLANCO par Mandif in Ubud. I left in awe of his passion and respect for Indonesian food as well as his grand ambition to elevate the cuisine of his homeland to a higher plane of gastronomic delight. Days after the hushed opening of BLANCO par Mandif in June 2015, he invited me over for a dinner. Little did I know that I was witnessing an extraordinary culinary renaissance with a signed copy of the menu to take home!

BLANCO par Mandif—the name is inspired by the flamboyant late Spanish artist Antonio Blanco—has boldly served dishes that have never been done by any Indonesian chef or restaurateur. Chef Mandif is an infinitely fascinating man who sees no distinction between life, food and art. While artful Asian-French fusion fare takes centre stage at Teatro Gastroteque, Indonesian heritage haute cuisine reigns the chef’s tasting runway at BLANCO. Let’s have a taste…

Crossing Boundaries
Beyond the opulent wooden space, the bustling open kitchen, the sleek eight-seater chef’s tasting table and the theatrical culinary inventions, a nostalgic sentiment lingers in the air. The highly conceptualized degustation menu, ranging from five to 13 courses, caters to sophisticated palates and reads like a delicious trip down Chef Mandif’s memory lane across the archipelago.

Digging deep into the roots of Indonesian food for customs and traditions, heart-warming recipes from his childhood are dissected, reconstructed and resurrected through innovative ideas, where classical culinary techniques meet modern cooking technology and give birth to elegant plating and refined flavours. Boundaries are crossed and palates challenged, and Indonesian cuisine, as we know it, is reborn.

Innovations aside, this is also where Mother Nature meets haute cuisine. Mandif is so in touch with the earth that he insists on only using the finest seasonal produce ethically sourced from local farmers and quality suppliers—with the exception of a few inevitable imports. Everything is meticulously made from scratch and brought straight from the bountiful nature to the kitchen table.

Alongside his young, equally passionate and patriotic super team, he strives to simply “make people happy” through his culinary articulation and inspire Indonesians to be proud of their food.

Culinary Heritage
Eko Putro—BLANCO’s talented and sassy sommelier-cum-General Manager with a healthy rebellious streak—takes beverage pairing up a notch with his fierce homemade concoctions and aged cocktails matched perfectly to each dish.

Rempeyek, a savoury, ubiquitous Javanese snack of deep fried crackers made from flour, spices and other ingredients is the opening act at BLANCO, re-imagined as crispy spinach, kale and river eel—bred locally by one of the staff. This dish is gracefully balanced on a curious wire sculpture and served with a side of spicy tomato sambal. Accompanied by a citrusy Kintamani cocktail, it makes for a refreshing start to a decadent evening.

Comfort foods are revamped to complex modernist gastronomy, but there is no shyness or compromise on the flavours, textures and tastes. Rajungan—a dish of humble origin—is a hearty soup of roasted corn, shredded crabmeat, sweet onions and lime that is artfully presented in a unique ceramic bowl. I have to say, it is best paired with a cool margarita shaken right in front of you.

The next dish that blows my mind is the Cakalang, a famous dish from North Sulawesi that consists of warm dashi poured over silky house-made noodles. A sumptuous broth is painstakingly prepared with Japanese style katsuobushi or skipjack tuna that has gone through a lengthy process of drying, fermenting and smoking. In the hands of Chef Mandif, it is transformed into a delectable delicacy that evokes nostalgia and provokes interest.

Of course, don’t forget to try the Sambal balado, a tangy staple spicy condiment of West Sumatra. It is the sweet starring sauce of the butter poached tiger prawn, complemented with crispy and notoriously stinky petai beans—off-putting to some but popular among Indonesians. Eko swears by his signature barrel-aged Negroni to bring out the best of this dish.

Dessert is most certainly not an afterthought at BLANCO. Cendol, traditionally a sweet treat of rice flour, palm sugar, coconut milk and green worm-like jelly, is transformed into an exquisite symphony of delicate, colourful jackfruit and pandan spheres, gourmet pandan ice cream, slippery basil seeds soaked in coconut milk and fragrant coconut bubbles floating harmoniously in wedang jahe—a clever twist on the old ginger tea—made with a ginger and lemongrass infused palm sugar reduction. Truth to be told, this is the best cendol and wedang jahe I’ve ever had in my life.

There are soulfulness and an element of playfulness in Chef Mandif’s creations. Alongside his young, equally passionate and patriotic super team, he strives to simply “make people happy” through his culinary articulation and inspire Indonesians to be proud of their food. The BLANCO experience is a fine epicurean ride into the future of Indonesian cuisine. This is one man’s quest to reclaim national pride through a rich culinary heritage that has been globally disregarded for too long. His statement is bold, loud and clear. It’s about time.

 

BLANCO par Mandif
Blanco Renaissance Museum Complex
Jalan Raya Tjampuhan
Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
T: (+62) 361 479 2284
www.blancoparmandif.com
 
 
Notes:
Get to know Chef Mandif M. Warokka: For the Love of Indonesia
This article was first published in Bali & Beyond — February 2016.
Photos by Meliana Salim unless otherwise stated.

The post A Fine New World first appeared on Meliana Salim.

It’s raining chefs in the lush hills of Ubud, Bali. Asia’s beloved Street Food Chef, Will Meyrick, has transported his “chef-in-crime” Palm Amatawet, together with Chef Tim Bartholomew, to the kitchen of Hujan Locale, his latest culinary baby in the centre of town.

Chef Will Meyrick lives, breathes and eats street food and there is no better chef to bring Indonesia’s diverse cultures together through cuisine. We checked in with The Street Food Chef at the newly opened Hujan Locale while waiting out the torrential rain.

Q: What brought about your fifth restaurant, Hujan Locale?

A: We are working closely with local farmers, honouring the relationship. Hujan is all about that. Apart from that, I see that Bali is now saturated with Asian cuisine. Hujan is the manifestation of my desire to come back to my roots. Yes, we have Asian dishes on the menu for lunch, but we also offer hearty European comfort food for dinner.

Q: How did you decide on the found-and-foraged concept?

A: This is one of the things we want to develop to honour the farmers we work with. We see their lives every day and they inspire us. It’s about using what is available around you. In this case, we are trying to use local ingredients that are not used all that much and what is available locally, rather than getting imported ingredients. We really wish we could go local completely. We use the produce from our own livestock farm, but the demands of tourism still force us to substitute imported ingredients.

Q: Tell us more about your relationship with the local farmers.

A: The farm we have in Jatiluwih is run and managed by local farmers. We supervise and educate them. It has been fun. We support each other. Now we have pigs and chickens in our farm. I hope in the near future we can develop the farm further with them.

Q: What makes Hujan Locale unique?

A: The design of the interior has a light and airy feel. The overall concept is to make you feel like you are in the countryside. You can see botanical ingredient prints on the plates, as well as the enamel plates that remind me of those used by farmers at their homes during my childhood in ‘70s and ‘80s. And of course the food itself, you’ll find some classic dishes like gentleman’s relish: homemade blood pudding and bread-and-butter pudding, which I used to have at home when I was a child.

Q: What do diners need to try when they visit Hujan Locale?

A: The wood-roasted bone marrow, the pork cutlets and the bread-and-butter pudding.

Q: Please share with us your most memorable Hujan Locale moment.

A: What I love about Balinese culture is that anyone can join in their religious ceremonies. Just before we opened Hujan, we had the blessing ceremony and I was sitting there with my mom, my wife and my children, also Wayan the owner of the restaurant and all the staff, including the Muslim and Christian ones. It was amazing!

Q: Now that you’re spending more time in Ubud, what have you discovered about the town?

A: Ubud is very small. Everybody knows everybody. There’s a bigger chunk of international market here compared to Seminyak. Hence, we created an Asian lunch menu, a Western dinner menu, as well as Spanish pizzas. So the restaurant has something for everybody—a little quirk you cannot find in other restaurants.

Q: What do you collect?

A: Cameras and applications, also gadgets.

Q: What is your all-time most memorable meal?

A: I’ll never forget the taste of the bats and rats I had in Sulawesi.

Q: What is your secret culinary weapon?

A: A griddle plate.

Q: What are you most proud of in your professional life?

A: The growth of my staff.

Q: What else is up your chef’s sleeve?

A: We are opening another Mama San in Kuala Lumpur this year and two more restaurants in Bali. I have a goal of growing the business until I’m 40—that’s one and a half years away. Then I will focus on working with farmers and growing the culture side of the food, together with the local as well as international communities.

Q: What is your favourite rainy-day activity?

A: Cooking at home with my children.

Q: Sincerest congratulations on the upcoming opening of Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve in Ubud! How are things coming along up there and when is the property likely to open?

A: The construction is progressing very well. A lot of the areas are almost ready—the villas, the suites, the restaurants. It’s all looking very nice. Let’s say we are at 80%. We are hoping to open in the summer of 2015. It’s very exciting!

Q: Please tell us a bit about yourself and how you got to where you are today.

A: I’m Portuguese, 47 years old. I have always enjoyed organizing things, cooking, taking care of my friends and family and entertaining them. I went to a prestigious hotel management school in Portugal and during my internship, I quickly realized that this is my passion. Upon graduation in 1991, I started working as a cost controller and assistant general manager at a four-star hotel in Lisbon.

I worked for a total of 12 years in sales and marketing as a manager and then a director at numerous five-star properties in Portugal, including The Orient-Express, the Four Seasons Hotel, The Ritz Lisbon, the Pestana Palace Hotel, the Praia Del Rey Marriott Golf & Beach Resort and The Ritz-Carlton Penha Longa Hotel Spa & Golf Resort. Eventually, I became the Hotel Manager and, soon after, the General Manager of Penha Longa when my predecessor left.

Then I started to look at “what’s next”. My predecessor was already in Asia at that time, a region that was experiencing tremendous growth and when asked if I’d be willing to move, I said yes and ended up as the General Manager of Phulay Bay, The Ritz-Carlton’s first Reserve in Krabi, Thailand, for two and a half years. It was a very challenging but highly rewarding experience. After that, I told my vice-president of my next wish: to stay longer in Asia, to continue working at a Ritz-Carlton resort and to open a Ritz-Carlton Reserve. He then presented me to the owners of Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve and here I am!

Q: Having worked with the prestigious Ritz-Carlton Group for more than nine years, what do you think really sets the group apart from its competitors?

A: At The Ritz-Carlton, our company motto is: “We are Ladies and Gentlemen serving Ladies and Gentlemen.” It’s all about our people, attention to details and giving our guests exceptional experiences that they will remember for life. It’s what sets us apart from other companies.

Every time we recruit new Ladies and Gentlemen, we have an orientation to introduce them to The Ritz-Carlton philosophy. It’s rewarding to see them growing, knowing everything by heart and truly living and breathing it. A lot of it cannot be taught; The Ritz-Carlton Culture comes from talent and the heart. For me, The Ritz-Carlton way is the only way. They breed it from the top to the bottom.

Q: Your new property Mandapa, is a Ritz-Carlton Reserve. Could you please explain the key elements that differentiate a Ritz-Carlton Reserve from a Ritz-Carlton Hotel?

A: The Ritz-Carlton Group has more city hotels than resorts. The idea of opening a Reserve came from our President. When he was coming up with the name, he thought about a very exclusive bottle of wine. The concept of a Reserve is that it has to be a small and intimate resort with a maximum capacity of 100 rooms and, most importantly, it’s about the location, the local culture and its people. We try to reflect all of these in all of the resorts, focusing on attention to details and creating an experience of a lifetime for our guests.

We are opening Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve in Ubud, and there is also an upcoming project to open a Reserve in Tanah Lot in three years. There is no better place to open a Ritz-Carlton Reserve than Ubud—the culture, the ceremonies, the Balinese way of living—all of which will be recreated in Mandapa.

Q: What were your impressions when you first visited Mandapa as the new General Manager and when you relocated to Ubud, Bali, from Thailand?

A: When I saw the property for the first time in May 2014, I was totally overwhelmed by the beauty of the place, by the forest, the river and the rice fields and by what the project would become. We have 270 degrees of riverfront view! It’s beautiful. I love nature. The architectural concept is to recreate a Balinese village in all aspects. I didn’t know what a Balinese village was at that time. The understanding came later after I moved here and started to see what a real Balinese village is.

Q: What are the key elements of Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, that you hope will give the property a competitive edge over other hotels in Bali?

A: We are still working on a lot of the concepts, but essentially, it’s all about the experiences. We are recreating a Balinese village, bringing the essence of Ubud—its traditions, culture, craftsmanship, museum and art—into Mandapa. We will organize painting workshops and cooking and offering-making classes, encourage our guests to participate in rice harvesting and involve them in the local temple ceremonies.

Q: How would you compare managing Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, with any of your other hotel experiences?

A: It’s all about attention to details and the proximity to our guests. In Thailand, (and it will be the same in Mandapa), I was out on the property a lot, greeting guests at every check-in with our butlers, building close relationships and creating special experiences for them. We were so close that, at times, we became friends and on several occasions, as the guests were departing, some of our butlers cried! The connections and the special bonds we have with the guests are what make their stay truly memorable.

Being around a lot also allowed me to better manage my teams. The more they saw of me, the more approachable I became. It’s our “open-door policy”. The stronger the management interaction, the more you get out of everybody. It’s walking the talk.

Q: What do you perceive as the biggest challenge for Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve?

A: An opening is a challenge in itself, hopefully, a good one. The competitors are challenges too. On one road we have five big names and we are the new kid on the block, which is nice, but it can also be challenging to explain what a Ritz-Carlton Reserve is. Even with the two Reserve properties we have in the world, it’s a concept that a lot of people still don’t understand. We need to push it, put it on the map and spread the word!

The other challenge is more immediate. We are currently facing a lot of different problems: travel alerts for Indonesia, the conflicts in Russia and economic problems in many countries around the world. If it continues this way, it’s going to be a challenge to open in such an environment. Challenge is a strong word. Let’s call it an opportunity.

Q: Most general managers are men. What is it like working in a male-dominated field and what advice do you have for young women who aspire to this top job?

A: To be honest with you, I don’t see a big difference. I have always had very good relations with men, maybe even better than women. It’s definitely still a man’s world and I think the main reason is (and I believe it’s the biggest one), at one point, ladies have babies. They feel the need to put their family and babies before their career. I think that’s a mistake. You can still have a family and a career as long as you have good support for the family.

There are 88 Ritz-Carlton properties in the world, but there are only nine female general managers. In Asia, I’m the only one. At The Ritz-Carlton, there are career analyses and management evaluations several times a year and each time we help them get to where they want to be by providing the appropriate training and coaching if needed.

If you’d like to move forward in your career, my advice is to be strong, persistent and be the best in what you do. Don’t give up, be straightforward and ask for what you want. Everything is possible and everyone at The Ritz-Carlton is eager to help make it happen.

Q: How would you describe the current state of Bali’s hospitality industry? What are some of the emerging trends that you see?

A: Down south, new restaurants are opening and competing in luxurious experiences and exciting food and beverage concepts. In Ubud, the trend is all about wellness and spirituality. There are things here that you can’t find anywhere else in the world: its friendly people, the yoga culture and the healthy lifestyle. It’s comforting to see Ubud growing that way. You see these people with very good vibes going about town and it’s contagious. You just have to go with the flow.

Q: How have you changed since you first started out in the luxury hotel industry?

A: I think it was a normal progression; I have grown and evolved with different phases of my life and my positions—maybe in terms of my attention to details, my sense of luxury and my way of living—but apart from that, it’s just a way to mature and to grow with my team.

Now as a general manager, I have become more tolerant, more patient and closer to our Ladies and Gentlemen. I was not aggressive, but sometimes I was too straightforward with my team. I’ve matured a lot. The biggest change in me is probably adapting to all these new experiences and seeing what can make me better.

Q: If you weren’t working in the hotel industry, what would be your dream job?

A: What I do is my dream; it’s really what I feel happy doing. The long hours are challenging sometimes, but I don’t care! I love my job. At the hotel management school, there were 50 to 60 of us every year and today most of them are no longer in the hospitality industry. A lot of them gave up due to the tough working conditions. For me, it’s my passion. I don’t see myself doing anything else.

Q: What would be the title of your autobiography, were you to write one?

A: I would not write a book about myself, but perhaps a book about stories within the hotel industry. We have so many unbelievable stories! The problem is that I’m very bad at recording them. I have them in my head, but I will need to start on paper. That I would write, but not a book about me.

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, Ubud
Jalan Kedewatan, Banjar Kedewatan
Ubud, Bali, 80571, Indonesia
T: (+62) 821 4450 8787
www.mandapareserve.com

Notes:
This article was first published in Asia Dreams, March-April 2015.
Photos courtesy of Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, Ubud.

The post Creating the Experience of a Lifetime first appeared on Meliana Salim.

Scoot over tacos and tortillas. Rest in peace, ”Eat, Pray, Love”. Ubud is revved up and ready for an irresistible jolt of Latin American flamboyance and vigour. In a town where conscious eating rules, with the incessant mushrooming of raw food cafés, juice bars and organic shops, PICA South American Kitchen’s arrival on Jalan Dewi Sita is much-welcomed.

PICA’s menu is predominantly Peruvian, the original fusion cuisine that has become an unstoppable global phenomenon since 2011, perched high up on the gastronomic pedestal thanks to the relentless endorsement of acclaimed chefs the calibre of Ferran Adrià, Gastón Acurio, Alain Ducasse and Nobu Matsuhisa.

Chef Cristian Encina has perfected the art of reinventing Latin American food at PICA, heating up the neighbourhood with his gutsy, uninhibited, authentic flavours, bringing in a fresh, contemporary twist whilst honouring timeless traditions.

A project of love conceived by a spirited couple, chef-owner Cristian Encina and co-owner Monica Fernandez, this inconspicuous hole-in-the-wall is small but never cramped, its vibe laid-back and relaxed. At PICA, the line of responsibility is distinctively drawn: Encina reigns in the open kitchen, while Monica manages front of house operations—a winning formula that has earned them a cult following. The design is simplistic and clean yet not an afterthought, staying clear of kitsch and clichés while retaining a warm, convivial ambience where South American swagger is balanced with Balinese sensibility.

Hailing from Santiago, Chile, with years of culinary experience in fine dining restaurants across Chile, New Zealand and Australia, Encina’s unfettered enthusiasm led him to experiment with a kaleidoscope of Latin American flavours, cultures and spices—a bit of Brazilian, Chilean and Argentinian, with a special place on the menu for Peruvian dishes. The thoughtfully curated wine list is limited but elegant, with an emphasis on new world wines from South America, Australia and New Zealand.

“South American food is different from country to country, of course, but when you look beyond its differences, it is fresh, somehow simple and complex, and all the time intriguing. It’s very exciting for me to explore and re-interpret the rich diversity of South American cuisine,” said the Chilean-born chef.

Embrace the Latin way of celebratory dining by sharing plates with friends, tasting your way through South America. Expect artful arrangement without the pretentiousness. Start with the invigorating ceviche Nikkei, a subtle Japanese take on the Peruvian classic of raw mahi-mahi, red onion, coriander, tamarillo dressing and leche de tigre (”tiger’s milk” consisting of a lemon marinade used to cure raw seafood). The causa del mar is a colourful Peruvian potato cake starter served cold with a trio of octopus, prawn and mahi-mahi escabeche (citrus-marinated) topped with criolla sauce.

Still on Peruvian turf, the pulpo al olivo and the picante de pescade y camarones are two delightful mains that have us coming back time and again. The former is a succulent, flavourful octopus main, lovingly prepared through a lengthy, tenderizing process and presented with a simple quinoa salad and olive sauce. The latter is a stunning duo of crispy-skinned, perfectly moist white fish and delicately breaded and fried prawns on a creamy picante sauce with sweet green peas, a dollop of fresh cheese, black olives, a quail’s egg and a side of rice and corn.

PICA regulars rave about the pancita de lechon (a pork belly dish with roasted vegetables, sweet potatoes, green apple puree and date sauce) and the smoky bife ancho (300g of top-grade Australian Angus rib-eye served with chimichurri, beef jus and a seasonal side), claimed by some as the best pork belly and steak in Ubud. Personally, I love the understated simplicity of the pastel de choclo, a harmoniously balanced stew of sweet corn puree baked with savoury mushrooms and criolla.

Between the two desserts on offer, the leche asada (Chilean crème caramel) and the tres leches (Peruvian ”three milks” cake), I prefer the latter—a chilled Genoise sponge cake soaked for at least three hours in three forms of milk (evaporated, condensed and cream), infused with fragrant spices of vanilla, cinnamon and cloves, and enlivened with a hint of tangy passion fruit.

Chef Cristian Encina has perfected the art of reinventing Latin American food at PICA, heating up the neighbourhood with his gutsy, uninhibited, authentic flavours, bringing in a fresh, contemporary twist whilst honouring timeless traditions.


PICA South American Kitchen
E: welcome@picakitchen.com
www.picakitchen.com


Notes:
This article was first published in Exquisite Taste, February-April 2015.
Photos courtesy of PICA South American Kitchen.

The post March of the Peruvian first appeared on Meliana Salim.

Hujan Locale landed in Ubud like a welcome tropical rain: refreshing its farms and fields, nourishing our bodies with nature’s bounty and capturing our hearts and souls with its found-and-foraged culinary movement.

Chef Will Meyrick certainly knows how to get our attention. When we got wind of his latest culinary venture, Hujan Locale (local rain) on Jalan Sri Wedari in Ubud—Bali’s lush cultural highland blessed with a fair share of rainfall, our eyebrows were raised and our interest piqued.

The acclaimed Street Food Chef has been busy, to say the least. From publishing his own cookbook, “Sarong Inspirations” (now on its second print run), to starring in Indonesian TV programs (including the Top Chef franchise) and successfully establishing four restaurants—the award-winning flagship Sarong and its younger sister Mama San in Bali, the E&O (Eastern & Oriental) in Jakarta and the second Mama San in Hong Kong—nothing is stopping this multi-talented culinary icon from conquering Southeast Asia.

At the newly opened Hujan Locale, Chef Will has adopted an emerging food trend, the found-and-foraged philosophy, committing to a time-old tradition of slow-cooking using seasonable, sustainably sourced ingredients right down to the bar menu, paying a special tribute to the rain and the hedonistic harvest bestowed upon him by local farmers with whom he has close relationships over the past three years.

We arrived at the aptly named restaurant semi-soaked from the prophesied rain showers but pleased to join our table of eight for an evening of gastronomic debauchery. We started with a round of inventive cocktails, such as the coconut mojito, cucumber martini, brem Negroni (a local liqueur made of fermented glutinous rice mixed with gin and Campari) and carrot swizzel (a concoction of vodka, lemon, vanilla, chilli, Thai basil and homemade carrot soda served with a handful of wafer-thin carrot candy).

Hujan Locale has inherited the nostalgic feel of an old French-colonial mansion in rural Vietnam from the previous establishment, complete with beautiful wooden shutters. The revamped lofty space reflects an understated tropical elegance with its recycled teak panelling and a palette of cool greens and greys boosted with splashes of pomegranate and citrus. The interior is given a cool edge with provincial-meets-urban touches of linear drawings, vintage botanical prints, a large distressed mirror with studded brass pins, an eye-catching M.C. Escher’s “Palm” as a centrepiece and a commissioned photograph of “Morning Rain” by renowned Indonesian photographer Hengki Koentjoro, while still respectfully conserving its old-world Asian charm.

Chef Will’s roots remain unapologetically grounded within the familiar perimeters of Southeast Asian flavours. The menu—put together with his “chef-in-crime” Palm Amatawet, Chef Tim Bartholomew and Chef Stuart Marsden—offers a fusion fare of east meets west, combining his Scottish background and love of Asian cuisine and highlighting Indonesian cuisine with his trademark twist. Everything is made in-house wherever possible.

Adventurous appetizers include crispy chilli and fennel pig’s ears with roasted chilli and garlic aioli, heritage black pudding served on a betel leaf with prawn, fern-tip and charred shredded coconut, wood-roasted bone marrow topped with breadcrumbs and gentlemen’s relish and served with brioche and the crowd-favourite, Sri Lankan cured scallops with mints, shredded coconut, lime juice and salmon roe (think Asian ceviche exploding with spices).

Celebrating the diversity and complexity of Asia’s distinctive cuisines, the mains are sourced from the earth and oceans. Try the melt-in-your-mouth slow-braised soy beef cheek with wasabi green pea risotto and snow pea shoots, the smoky wood-oven marinated grilled pork cutlet served with a watermelon pickled radish and ginger mirin vinaigrette, the twice-cooked cumin-basted lamb shoulder with quinoa salad, cucumber yoghurt and roasted potatoes and the flavour-packed Kashmiri style roasted snapper wrapped in banana leaf and served with mint yoghurt.

As there’s always room for dessert, don’t miss out on the best bread and butter pudding in town (with whiskey and maple syrup ice cream), or curious comforts such as orange and chocolate Oreo cheesecake, lemon and passion fruit curd tart with coconut Malibu ice cream and dark sticky bourbon and cola pudding with rum and raisin ice cream.

From the highly trained front of house team to the warm, knowledgeable wait staff, Hujan Locale’s service is remarkably attentive yet discreet, never interfering with the flow of our conversations and allowing plenty of breathing (and tummy) space between courses—easily some of the best service we’ve experienced in Ubud.

Hujan Locale’s dishes are delectable personal stories that take you on a scintillating journey across Asia’s backstreet kitchens and into the heart of its culinary culture. Don’t save it for a rainy day, it is an epicurean treat for all seasons!

Hujan Locale
Jalan Sri Wedari 5, Ubud
Bali, Indonesia
T: (+62) 361 849 3092
www.hujanlocale.com

Notes:
This article was first published in Exquisite Taste, February-April 2015.
Photos courtesy of Hujan Locale.

The post Come Rain or Shine first appeared on Meliana Salim.

Freshly back from his culinary tours across Asia, Chef Will Meyrick’s suitcase is filled with fascinating stories and precious memories of East Java – stories of his connections with talented characters who share his passion for street food, and memories of his newfound love for the province’s cuisine.

Inspired by the Arabic influences in the flavours and textures of East Javanese dishes, Chef Will collected the traditional recipes, learned the cooking techniques, extracted the stories behind them and put his signature spin on them for Sarong, his award-winning restaurant in Bali.

On 11th November at Sarong’s intimate Kitchen Sessions: East Java, Chef Will transported us back to the markets and streets of Surabaya, Madura and other lesser-known towns with his newly inspired menu. The evening opened with elevated entrées of sate kelopo (chicken marinated in East Javanese spices and shredded coconut, served with cucumber, chilli and pickles) and Surabaya tofu salad, locally known as tahu tek, consisting of a wok-fried omelette, homemade lontong (rice cake) and potatoes served with saos kacang petis (a sauce made from peanuts and black fermented shrimp paste) and a beansprout salad.

New additions to Sarong’s mains include refined classics such as nasi bebek Madura (twice-cooked duck with mango sambal), nasi kebuli kambing (slow-cooked lamb shoulder simmered in nutmeg and cloves), 8-hour slow braised shredded beef with kluwek, beansprouts and salted duck egg, and twice-cooked cumin lamb with roasted potatoes and cucumber yogurt.

All of the dishes are beautifully elevated and meticulously prepared with a whole lot of love and respect for their origins. It is as if time has stood still and allowed us to rediscover the pleasure of eating and the significance of each dish.

The Street Food Chef in East Java

Chef Will Meyrick lives, breathes, travels and eats street food, and there is no better chef to bring Indonesia’s diverse cultures together through cuisine. We sat down with The Street Food Chef as he reminisced about discovering the pungent petis, munching on a cow’s nose and meeting East Java’s most impressive polygamist.

Q: What made you decide to visit East Java, and Madura in particular?

A: I have been travelling all across Indonesia for a few years now, and still, there are many regions in the country that I have not visited. I had heard a lot of things about East Java, especially Surabaya. Its history – it was a significant part of the battle for Indonesian Independence, definitely drew my attention. I had also heard about some local ingredients that I wanted to learn more about, such as petis, that make the people of Surabaya such fanatics about their food. And Madura, even though the island is actually part of East Java province, you hear so many stories, the people, the culture, the land, everything is completely detached from the main island. These aspects made me decide to check it all out for myself.

Q: Tell us about some of your most exciting culinary finds from this region. What is your favourite?

A: East Javanese food is generally challenging for me, a very particular kind of taste dominates everything else. Petis pretty much dominates, it is served in everything. Rujak cingur was the most challenging dish; that grisly, slimy cow nose was not the best-tasting ingredient I have ever tried, but I did try it! I am sure, with a little bit of a twist, I could find a way to make it super tasty. Bebek Madura and tahu tek though, were my real favourites.

Q: Who is most memorable person you’ve met on this tour?

A: Pak Haji Gozali, the owner of a kaldu sumsum stall in Madura. This man is 70 years old and has 159 wives. I was impressed by his stamina and his organization – what a task!

Q: What are two interesting things about East Java that the average person doesn’t know?

A: It really depends on what “average person” means, but for me, first, I found out that Surabaya is quite deceptive. Behind the modern façade, it’s a melting point of completely different cultures; Javanese, Madurese, Bugis, Chinese and Arabs live side by side and influence each other. The other thing is that Sate Madura is the hardest dish to find there in Madura.

Q: Please share with us the best moment of your entire trip.

A: Scouring the Pabean traditional market. The people, the atmosphere, the overall ambiance, it sent me back to some fantastical historical time, like travelling in a time machine. I remember clearly the gypsy looks of the Madurese women, with thick black eye liner. They laughed and danced in front of me.

Q: What’s the most useful item you’ve bought?

A: I did not buy anything. I bought food and some ingredients, probably petis, as I used it in my kitchens.

Q: What’s the weirdest thing you’ve seen there?

A: When you have an open mind to travel and experience culture there is nothing the world that is weird, not really; there are differences, but they are not weird.

Q: Finish this sentence: When in Madura…

A: I felt like an alien, people stared, almost with a suspicious look, but they immediately started smiling and laughing when they realized I was trying to talk to them. They welcomed me warmly when they knew I wanted to try their food and learn the culture from them.

Q: What do you love most about travelling?

A: Getting to know people and their lives through their food.

Q: What can’t you travel without?

A: Patience and open mind.

Q: What’s the best piece of travel advice you’ve received?

A: Sew a pocket inside your jeans and always carry small change. You might need it in some places, probably a place where the people ask for a fee for a photograph of them.

Q: Who do you miss the most when you travel and what’s the longest you’ve been away from home?

A: My family, of course, they are my anchor in life, and the longest we have been separated is for one month.

Q: What did you learn about yourself from this trip?

A: From this trip and every trip, I reignite my insatiable curiosity, I feel like I discover my love of travel each time I arrive somewhere new, and in a way I rediscover my “self”, the part of me that is open to the adventure.

Q: What’s your next culinary destination?

A: Life is that exciting, I am not even sure, I’d like to discover more of Malaysia. I have some historical family ties to the country I’d like to uncover…

Sarong Restaurant
Jalan Petitenget 19x, Kerobokan
Bali 80361, Indonesia
T: (+62) 361 4737 809
www.sarongbali.com

Notes:
This article was first published in Asia Dreams, January-February 2015.
Photos courtesy of Sarong Restaurant Bali. 

The post A Chef’s Tale: East Java first appeared on Meliana Salim.

Devotees of Teatro Gastroteque will be delighted to know that its award-winning Indonesian chef-owner Mandif M. Warokka has a new trick up his chef’s sleeve, soon-to-be unveiled in Bali’s cultural heartland of Ubud.

Indonesia must be very proud of Chef Mandif M. Warokka. Here’s an exuberant, inquisitive and nationalistic chef with a deep-rooted love for his home country. Shying away from the celebrity chef limelight, he puts his head down, his feet firmly on the Indonesian ground, and his heart and soul into perfecting his food at Teatro Gastroteque.

At the Blanco Renaissance Museum in Ubud, the artist revealed his iconoclastic vision for Indonesia’s culinary renaissance, his most provocative ingredient, his dream book project, and his surprising penchant for guitar-making. He is the quintessential advocate for contemporary Indonesian cuisine.

Q: How has Teatro Gastroteque evolved since its opening in 2012? What is the secret to its success?

A: We started with nine tables and now we have fourteen. Our revenue is up 400 percent since 2012. Initially, I was skeptical. We were the first to offer this dining concept (dégustation menu) in Seminyak – an intimate restaurant with no view, no distractions. We focus 100 percent of our energy on the food, the quality of the ingredients, and delivering the best dining experiences. The key to Teatro’s success is in our patience, persistence and passion.

Q: What does it take to win the Michelin stars and what kind of effect can it have on you and your restaurant?

A: I want to be the first Indonesian chef to have a Michelin-starred restaurant. Anyone can make beautiful food, but what is the essence? To win the stars, it’s not all about me; it’s about the concept, the food and the soul of the people behind it. I don’t want my ego to take over and put tremendous pressure on my team. It’s my professional challenge to win the Michelin stars, but I will not live with that kind of pressure for the rest of my life. Cooking is about love. You don’t love it for the sole purpose of getting the Michelin stars.

Q: You are opening a new restaurant in Ubud, how exciting! What is your vision for this?

A: Blanco par Mandif will offer contemporary Indonesian cuisine with 28 seating capacity, opening in November 2014 at the historical Blanco Renaissance Museum in Ubud. The late maestro Antonio Blanco painted nude women at a time when it wasn’t accepted in Indonesia. What he did was contemporary and brave; he took it to another level. This is what Blanco par Mandif is about: Indonesian cuisine, elevated.

Historically, Indonesian cuisine was influenced by the Dutch, Chinese, Indians, Mongols and Malay. Today, it’s blending with European cuisine. I intend to manipulate and improve the textures while preserving the essence of the cuisine and present the intense flavours on a different level. The dégustation menu at Blanco par Mandif will feature a gastronomic voyage into the evolution of Indonesian cuisine – from its colonial beginnings to the modern flavours of contemporary times. Guests will have a unique experience visiting our kitchen, meeting the team and learning about our concept.

Q: You were spotted at this year’s Ubud Writers & Readers Festival. What was that experience like?

A: I prepared Bubur Manado, a North Sulawesi rice porridge dish served socially at breakfast. It’s easy to make and can be vegetarian and 100 percent organic. When you spice it up with homemade sambal ikan roa (spicy condiments made of smoked fish) to elevate the flavours, this creates a beautiful contrast between the land and the sea. The participants were surprised by the mind-blowing flavours coming from such an uncomplicated dish. The secret is in using good quality ingredients. I don’t need gastronomy experts to compliment my food; I prefer amateur gourmands who like to eat street food. To me, good food is “no-brainer” food.

Q: Your most influential chef, Thomas Keller from The French Laundry said, “Food should be fun”. How do you bring fun into your food?

A: The element of fun in my food comes in the colour and the texture. It’s fun when you have something surprising in your mouth. It’s fun when the colours are vibrant. Balance these two components and you’ll have fun in your food. Most importantly, everybody must enjoy themselves when preparing the food. It’s all part of creating good food.

Q: Is there anything you wouldn’t serve in your restaurant?

A: I would say a local ingredient called jengkol (dogfruit or jering). Jengkol has a beautiful texture, but it’s incredibly challenging to work with. It’s very pungent. I’ve been experimenting with how to remove the smell, but if you do that, then it’s not jengkol anymore! I will keep on experimenting.

Q: Where is Bali’s dining scene headed?

A: Bali’s dining scene is very dynamic now, unlike four years ago when all the good restaurants were in five-star hotels. I love that Bali has Cuca, Merah Putih, Barbacoa, Mozaic and Locavore. I hope in the next five years Bali will be a dining destination. We need more good restaurants in Bali. Let’s not create scarcity; we should create opportunity. We compete in quality and let the customers feel and taste it.

Q: You are an inspiration and a culinary icon for many budding chefs in Indonesia. What advice do you have for them?

A: Have a love for cooking, lots of patience and determination, and be hardworking. It’s a chosen life. I help young chefs to develop the right attitude, not the skills. They must have a good attitude for learning. Anybody can become a chef, you don’t have to go to a culinary school. Culinary schools don’t create chefs. Attitudes do. I’ve had offers to do cooking shows, but I’m not a celebrity chef. I’m a teacher. I really love my chefs and teaching them everything I know.

Q: Would you like to write your own book someday?

A: I’d love to make a book about my contemporary Indonesian cuisine to inspire our youths to be proud of our heritage and cuisine and to choose a chef’s life. It’s a frowned upon profession here, even the word koki (chef in Indonesian language) doesn’t sound nice. I want to create chef hype, develop it further, and learn from one another.

Q: What do you like to do on your day off?

A: I spend time with my two kids. If I miss this moment with my family, it’ll never come back. In the future, I’d like to make guitars. I’m learning from YouTube every day. I already have a concept in mind: French-polishing, hand-painted, superior wood, and only two to four pieces a year. I was in a band when I studied in Bandung, but I don’t like to play guitar, I prefer making them.

Q: What other projects are you working on?

A: I hope to open a restaurant in Jakarta. Dining out is a lifestyle in Jakarta, there’s big money to be made and burnt. Someone once spent Rp 400 million on a bottle of wine! It’s all about social status, good food, nice ambience and a great location. My concept for Jakarta will be “no-brainer” food – delicious noodles, great bakso, tender steaks – all cooked to perfection. I would love to open an Indonesian restaurant in Europe to expose our cuisine to the world. Food is such an important part of life. I love gastronomy. I love this business.

www.teatrobali.com
www.blancoparmandif.com 

Notes:
This article was first published in Exquisite Taste, November 2014-January 2015.
Photos courtesy of Teatro Gastroteque unless otherwise stated.

The post For the Love of Indonesia first appeared on Meliana Salim.

The Restaurant at Amandari, headed by a young, poised American chef, has been the talk of the island of late. Executive Chef Christian Hinckley joined Amandari in mid-2009, just in time to celebrate the resort’s twentieth anniversary.

Chef Christian’s unique culinary adventures range from apprenticing as a Sous Chef with “Pope of the Palate/Chef of the Century” Joël Robuchon at The Mansion (the first and only 3 Star Michelin Guide Winner in Las Vegas to date) to managing the kitchens of Amankora, a 5-lodge, 72-room exclusive retreat in the Kingdom of Bhutan. He is recently crowned “Most Favourite Chef in Bali” by the readers of a national magazine.

A graduate of the Dubrulle Hotel and Culinary Institute of Canada, Chef Christian calls upon his training in French cuisine and his love of molecular gastronomy in perfecting his signature style: modern bistro cuisine with simple, elegant presentations, respectfully utilizing the freshest local produce and spices. The result: epicurean delights par excellence–lovingly prepared to wow the discerning palates of bon viveurs. The Restaurant offers an archipelago menu featuring speciality dishes from all over Indonesia, western and Indonesian à la carte, daily set menus, and a decadent 5-course degustation menu with wine pairing for the adventurous foodies.

Chef Christian’s signature dish–a foie gras torchon with a black pepper and pineapple relish, berry reduction, and brioche–reflects Aman’s philosophy summed up by Zecha: Simplicity is the essence of elegance.”

Amandari
Kedewatan, Ubud
Bali, Indonesia
T: (+62) 361 975 333
https://www.aman.com/resorts/amandari

Notes:
This article was first published in Indonesia Design — September-October 2010.
Photos by Meliana Salim unless otherwise stated.

The post The Epicurean Bistro first appeared on Meliana Salim.