I’m no stranger to risk-taking—I have skydived from 4,000 metres high and gone bungee jumping. I frequently dive with sharks, and I even fell in love and got married. When adventure beckons, I brace myself, gear up and get going. Nevertheless, the concept of canyoning or canyoneering was foreign and a little bit scary for me.

Canyoning is an adventure sport that is rapidly gaining popularity worldwide. It involves the uncharted territory of specialised equipment, brain-boggling technicalities and challenging courses. But at the same time, it is also a combination of fun and thrilling outdoor activities such as trekking, scrambling, sliding, rappelling, jumping and swimming, and it often takes place in remote and rugged natural settings. I was sold.

It was no ordinary Sunday morning. My husband and I were deep in the heart of the wilderness, beneath the rainforest canopy of Git Git in northern Bali. We were already suited up in our canyoning necessities: five-millimetre wetsuits, helmets, rubber boots, a climbing harness with carabiners and a Pirana descender for rappelling as well as an unflattering butt cushion for water sliding.

Joined by two other couples, our guide named Angga, his assistant Oka, and Adventure and Spirit’s (Bali’s pioneering canyoning operator) photographer Imin, we explored Kalimudah, the novice’s easy half of the action-packed Kerenkali Canyoning Adventure program. It was a spot in Bali like we’ve never seen before.

Undeterred by the impending rain we trekked down a scenic trail of forested hilltops amidst coffee and clove plantations, clambering over rocks and ridges and sliding down water-polished chutes into surprisingly chilly pools. So far, so good—until Angga started to set up the lines for our first rappel and showed us the ropes (excuse the pun).

Rappelling or abseiling is the act of descending from a vertical drop in a safe and controlled way by mastering the craft of the knot. The techniques were simple, yet I was nervous. Oka was already at the bottom, holding the (emergency brake) lines, just in case.

It was my turn to go. “Lean back and keep your feet flat against the wall,” Angga instructed. I took a deep breath, positioned my hands on the ropes and my legs shoulder width apart at right angles to the rock and descended gradually, a little steadier and faster with each step while maintaining my focus and control.

To my surprise, I did it! I made it down in one piece, albeit with minor scratches. It was a strange sensation: a mix of pride and awe, much like when I took my first underwater breath while scuba diving.

When asked what one should prepare for canyoning, Mika replied, “Bring your courage, smile and trust. The only question you should be asking yourself is: ‘Do you want to do it?’”

Pumped up with adrenaline and newfound confidence we moved swiftly, completing a cool sequence of jumping, rappelling and zip lining down the volcanic gorges in relative ease.

“Rule number one of cliff jumping: don’t change your mind,” said Angga, a confident, athletic young man with a sparkling personality and an infectious enthusiasm. “Jumping is optional; there is no pressure. But once you’ve decided to jump, stop over-thinking and just do it! The risk is in the hesitation,” he added. He obviously loves his job and is well versed in the art of empathy and the psychology of motivation.

Placing his left foot forward on the edge of the four-metre cliff and his right foot firmly back, he continued, “When you’re ready, push off with your front leg and jump out as far as you can. Before landing in the water, keep your arms in and your knees slightly bent.”

As if on cue, Oka stepped into the jump position and leapt, striking a cheeky mid-air pose for the camera before plunging feet first into the waterhole. Within seconds he surfaced and signalled ‘OK’ to us. Easy breezy!

When we arrived at the top of a 15-metre waterfall, our last abseiling challenge before the break, the tropical rain showers had turned into a torrential downpour. Channelling my inner Lara Croft, I braved the waterfall and planted my feet on the slippery rock.

For a minute I was caught off guard by the sheer force of the raging white water pounding me relentlessly. But there was no turning back and absolutely no looking up. My helmet came in handy in protecting my head and providing a breathing pocket under the waterfall as I rappelled down safely.

Sadly, due to the prolonged downpour with a possibility of dangerous flash floods, Angga made the unpopular call to end our journey and give Kerenkali a miss, as safety always comes first at Adventure and Spirit. We nursed our wet, disappointed selves with energy bars and sweet tea in a natural hot spring by the waterfall before reluctantly returning to civilization.

In 2008, seasoned French canyoneer Michael Denissot (Mika) and his nature-loving Indonesian business partner Robin Endro introduced canyoning to Bali and Indonesia. It took them three years to get the business up and running, and now they are the undisputed experts in leading canyoning tours of all levels into the sublime landscapes of Bali.

Mika went a step further and initiated the International Canyoning Organization for Professionals (ICOpro) in 2011, which becomes the world’s first organization that offers professional canyoning training, standardization and certification.

When asked what one should prepare for canyoning, Mika replied, “Bring your courage, smile and trust. The only question you should be asking yourself is: ‘Do you want to do it?’” One will never know one’s powers until one unlocks the fear. “When our guests arrive at the end of the waterfall, many of them feel like they have won something,” shared Robin. “They have conquered their fear,” he smiled.

And so have I. I went home from canyoning feeling enriched, humbled and exhilarated. This experience has extended my physical and mental limits, inspired my spirited sense of adventure and deepened my respect for nature, especially the personal nature of my heart, mind and body.

In a team extreme sports environment such as canyoning, we cannot help but bare our souls for others to see. Angga said it best, “In nature, we are a team. There is no boss or customer. We support and help each other along the way. We are equals.” And that’s the spirit in canyoning… and in life!

 
 
PT. Adventure and Spirit

Mas, Ubud, Bali
Tel:  +62 361 971 288
www.adventureandspirit.com

 
Notes:

This article was first published in Bali & Beyond — November 2016.

Photos and videos courtesy of Adventure & Spirit.

The post That’s the Spirit! first appeared on Meliana Salim.

As an adventurous water baby living on an island of endless summer, I owe it to myself to explore every waterhole and aqua activity. Be it scuba diving, surfing, white water rafting, snorkeling or waterfall hunting, I never turn down a chance to get wet and wild in Bali’s beautiful nature. I am hopeless at board sports and my knowledge of wakeboarding is practically non-existent, but when I was offered an experience at the Bali Wake Park, I descended from the highlands of Ubud in a heartbeat.

Conveniently located in Benoa Harbour—15 minutes from Bali’s tourist hotspots of Kuta, Jimbaran and Sanur, an hour from Ubud and a 10-minute drive from Ngurah Rai International Airport—Bali Wake Park is the island’s first and only wakeboarding park, serving riders of all ages and skill levels since April 2015.

Encompassing state-of-the-art full size rotating cable systems surrounding a five-hectare saltwater lake with eight carriers (allowing up to eight people to ride at once), a two-tower system ideal for beginners and children and a multi-brand retail pro shop, the park introduces beginners to the thrilling sport of wakeboarding while providing experienced riders with the facilities to further hone their skills. Simply put, it’s wakeboarding while being towed by an overhead cable system instead of a boat, making it significantly cheaper, hassle-free and environmentally friendly.

Non-wakeboarders are also welcome to pamper themselves in the lovely day spa, check out the Ninebot (electric-powered recreational vehicle) or soak up the sun in the infinity pool overlooking the lake action. Foodies will not be disappointed with Made’s Warung (an outlet of Bali’s iconic restaurant chain) and an upscale Chinese seafood restaurant, Akame. For those with deeper pockets, the adjacent heliport promises to take you to great heights in style for a spectacular bird’s eye view of the island.

My one-hour daily riding pass, priced at IDR 400,000, includes a wristband (to be time-scanned at the beginning of each ride) and the use of basic equipment: a life vest, a helmet and a board—choose from beginner boards, skurfers, kneeboards or double skis. I decided the least intimidating one for a wakeboarding virgin was the kneeboard.

As with all sports, safety comes first. In less than four minutes, the Bali Wake Park introductory and safety video had me all revved up and ready to get onboard. If those young, gorgeous, sashaying bikini babes in the video can do it, how hard could it be? I signed the waiver, put on my helmet and life vest, said a little player and headed to the deck to for a crash kneeboarding course with the friendly instructor.

Placing my kneeboard on the start ramp, he eased me into a comfortable kneeling position, secured my legs with the knee straps and reminded me that most beginners tend to fall in the water at the launch stage. I took the handle from the cable operator, grabbed it firmly and got into launch position. As I leaned forward on my board, I kept my centre of gravity as low as humanly possible and my eyes fixed on the light above, anxiously waiting for it to turn green. I admit I was nervous. This reminded me of the first time I went skiing in Canada without much instructions, had cold feet and froze in absolute fear at the top of the slopes and had to take my skis off and endure the walk of shame downhill, much to the annoyance of my ski buddy.

It was too late to back down now. The light had just turned green. I braced myself for the initial jerk and held on for dear life. In a split second, the cable thrust me forward from zero to 25 kilometres per hour. I went off like a rocket. The pull was so strong and swift that I almost lost my grip but I promptly steadied myself. As my board stabilized, I straightened up and let the handle pull me along for a few exhilarating metres, zooming past strategically placed obstacles (for advanced riders only). Fast approaching ahead, I saw my very first corner marked clearly with two little red buoys. I leaned to the right side, putting most of my weight on my right leg. The board responded by steering to the right, just in time for me to go through the buoys. I did it!

That challenge pumped up my adrenaline. Following additional coaching and tips from my instructor, I was primed and determined to tackle that tricky turn before my hour ended. I went for it, again and again unsuccessfully and I could feel my arms weakening and my grip loosening with every attempt but I refused to admit defeat. On my fourth round, I finally cleared it and came full circle! It was the most wonderful feeling in the world.

I cleared two more corners and was well over halfway around the lake, beaming and screaming away. My complacency was short-lived. At the next corner, I forgot everything that the instructor taught me and panicked. I lost control of the handle and fell face down into the water. I laughed out loud as I regained my composure and make my way onshore. On the buggy ride back, my instructor divulged that it was the hardest corner in the park and commended my novice effort.

Before my hour was up, I decided to give my sore muscles a break and save the beginner board experience for another sunny day. Wakeboarding is a skill best learned with great patience along with determination. When you stumble and fall, you can choose to slink away and nurse your bruised ego, or you can smile, swim to the side of the lake, get back up and try again. The important thing is to listen to the instructions, never give up and enjoy the ride. That’s wakeboarding. Come to think of it, that’s life!


Bali Wake Park
Jalan Pelabuhan Benoa No. 7X, Pesanggaran
Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia
T: (+62) 846 8866
E: contact@baliwakepark.com
www.baliwakepark.com


Note:
This article was first published in Ubud Life — Sep-Nov 2015.
Photos by Meliana Salim unless otherwise stated.

The post Ride the Wake first appeared on Meliana Salim.

Wake up to the rooster’s crow, catch the first rays of sunlight piercing through lush forests, caress the sparkling morning dews on the rice paddies, watch the town come alive and the locals go about their rituals… Ubud is a heaven on earth for travellers, a healing pit stop for wounded souls and a safe home to many hopeful dreamers. Let us take you to its heart; feel its pulsating core, leave a little love behind and take a piece of its magic with you.

1. The Early Bird Catches the Locals

Tourists go to the Ubud Market to hunt for souvenirs. Travellers know better and wake up early to mingle and haggle with the natives for fresh produce and local treats. Head to the Ubud Market before 9 AM and embrace the hustle and bustle of an authentic Balinese bazaar. Don’t forget to bring your camera to capture those only-in-Bali moments.

2. Spice Up Your Morning

Some Balinese breakfast dishes are not for the faint-hearted. The traditional ayam betutu—a generously seasoned and spiced 24-hour slow-roasted chicken dish—is a popular morning meal in Bali. The best in Ubud is at Betutu Ayam Pak Sanur tucked in the centre of town. Your stomach might resent you for the initial spicy shock but if you are lucky enough to meet Pak Sanur, the lovely man behind the one-and-only dish, allow him to charm you with his stories. Go before 10 AM to avoid disappointment; they cater to the royal families and are often sold out by late morning.

3. When in Ubud…

Use your time in Ubud to gain an understanding of the Balinese culture, learn some basic Indonesian words or pick up a new artistic skill. With over 30,000 books in more than 10 languages, Pondok Pekak Library & Learning Centre is a non-profit sanctuary in the centre of Ubud that provides a comfortable, creative space to explore Indonesian and Balinese classes in language, dance, music and arts and crafts.

4. The Motorcycle Diaries

Assuming you are an experienced rider with a valid license and a solid helmet, Ubud and its surroundings are best explored on a motorbike. Follow our scenic off-the-beaten-track road-trip routes:

• The north road towards the Elephant Safari Park in Taro is a long, beautiful stretch of endless rice fields and terraces, stunning mountain range and sweet little villages.
• Riding approximately 10 km north of Jalan Andong, you will be greeted with the jaw-dropping Tegallalang rice terraces (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). On your way back into town, be adventurous and explore the numerous winding side roads, passing through local artisans’ villages.
• Work up a little sweat and head north of Kedewatan, make a left at the sign for Black Penny Villas, park, follow the steep steps down leading to vast rice fields and join the locals for a cool dip in the Ayung River. Watch out for rafting traffic!

5. The Green Guerrillas

Support Bali’s green pioneers and initiatives through a unique half-day tour of Green Village, PT Bamboo Pure and Green School, located 30 minutes south of Ubud. See how humble blades of grass are transformed into bespoke bamboo homes at Green Village and unconventional eco-architecture and designs at the world-famous Green School, and learn about the whole process at PT Bamboo Pure. Check website www.greenvillagebali.com to book a tour.

6. For the Love of Bali Dogs

In Bali, you cannot cross the street without bumping into a street dog. As adorable as they are, the reproduction of these dogs is spiralling out of control. Many are destined to suffer from abuse, neglect, consumption, diseases or euthanasia due to lack of a loving home.

Help to improve the wellbeing of Bali’s animals by donating to Bali Pet Crusaders—a non-profit, locally run organization and a registered Australian charity on a noble mission to tackle the overpopulation of stray animals on the island through free sterilization of pets and strays and community education and engagement. A little donation goes a long way. For a more hands-on experience, visit Bali Dog Adoption and Rehabilitation Centre and volunteer to play with or walk the dogs.

7. A Cup of Java

Rio Helmi Gallery & Café is a roomy, light-filled gallery-cum-café run by the eponymous Indonesian photographer, writer and one of Ubud’s iconic residents. Drop by for a stimulating conversation with Rio over his punchy coffee. Rio has spent almost four decades in Ubud and travelled extensively across Asia, capturing unique images that are now immortalized in his gallery. He also leads Ubud Now & Then, an interesting website packed with the latest info on Ubud now and Ubud as it used to be.

8. Up the Lovers’ Lane

Imagine a traffic-free paved path with panoramic views of rolling hills, lush forests, rice fields, volcanoes and a river gorge. This is Campuhan Ridge, more commonly known among the locals as Bukit Cinta (Love Hill). Come for sunset and you’ll see why. Frisky Balinese teenagers stroll up and down the scenic path, dressed to impress in their heels and skinny jeans or doused in heavy cologne with a kretek in hand, giggling and flirting away or love-struck and cuddled up on the grassy hills. Ah, to be young again!

9. The Ubud Hipsters and Twisters

Get on the digital nomad bandwagon. Whether you like it or not, Ubud is changing and embracing a new generation of hipsters and twisters, creatives and techies, entrepreneurs and socialpreneurs—all buzzing, tapping and Bitcoining away at Hubud [Hub-in-Ubud], an über-popular collaborative working space where its thriving members are cramped into a hot and crowded (but sustainable) bamboo building.

10. Monkey See, Monkey Do

If you must see the notoriously cheeky monkeys of Ubud, we recommend skipping those lazy, obese macaques in the heart of town for a guided leisurely stroll in the serenity of Sangeh Holy Monkey Forest, a 30-minute drive from Ubud. The lesser-known haven is the biggest and the first monkey forest in Bali and home to 14 hectares of homogeneous pala (nutmeg) trees, three families of over 600 monkeys and the Pura Bukit Sari Sangeh—a mossy 17^th-century Hindu temple from the Mengwi Kingdom.

Notes:
This article was first published in Ubud Life — June-August 2015.
Photos by Meliana Salim unless otherwise stated.

The post Ubud’s Top 10 first appeared on Meliana Salim.

When I started diving in 2006, I was instantly hooked on a thrilling underwater adventure: night diving. “Some are afraid of the dark; others can’t wait for it to see the stars”–a statement truly befitting the experience of night diving and one that I’ve adopted as a personal philosophy in life. While onshore inhabitants are winding down for the day, life has only just started brewing beneath the ocean’s surface. At the flick of a switch on your flashlight, a mysterious underwater life unfolds before you, and as you immerse into a land of shadow and imagination, an eerie, otherworldly silence takes hold. You see things in a new light, literally.

Diving is a 24-hour sport (presuming you’re a certified open water diver and have completed a night diving specialty course). Pick a time, anytime between twilight and dawn. Choose a familiar and relatively calm dive site, grab a couple of experienced daredevil buddies (claustrophobics should stay on dry land), gear up and make a night of it.

Beginning to see the light
In Bali, there is one dive site worthy of staying up all night for: The Liberty Shipwreck in Tulamben. Avoid the high volume dive traffic throughout the day and opt for a twilight dive instead. All of your human senses will be augmented by the silence of the night, and as your eyes adjust to the darkness, you’ll see, feel and hear the reefs coming alive.

Lobsters, sea urchins, brittle starfish, crabs, squirrel fish and other nocturnal creatures start to emerge from their daytime hiding places to feed. Coral polyps extend their tentacles to trap microscopic zooplankton, small fish and other food particles. Dinner is served on the reef.

Marvel at the starry sky above and twinkling seas below as a wave of the hand reveals a trail of excited bioluminescent plankton–just shield your flashlight and move your hands. Plunge into a world where curious critters, irresistibly drawn to your light, come up to greet you and to get up close and personal. Observe tiny worms dancing in the water around you and take care not to startle sleeping turtles. Follow those kings of camouflage–cuttlefish, octopus and squid–as they change colours and shift shapes to fool the novice eye. Spy on a parrotfish as it spins a “sleeping bag” out of its own mucus, cocooning its entire body within an hour and tucking itself safely away into the reef.




There’s nothing quite like your first night dive to confront your fears of the dark, of water, and of the unknown all at once. The adrenaline rush generated by being thrown into the dark, unchartered territories is alleviated by the public spectacle of marine creatures surviving just another routine night. The diver is made a voyeur and is kept at a distance while paradoxically being intimately involved, and this transcendental experience is enormously seductive.

Knowing when to call it a night
Immediately plan your exit and surface:

• If you lose your dive buddy (turn off your dive light for a second to better see his/her light, if there’s still no result, calmly begin a controlled ascent).
• When you notice symptoms of fear, panic and stress, or a loss of orientation in a member of your dive team or in yourself (watch out for erroneous actions, frequent breathing, wide-open eyes, dizziness and random motion of the light).
• When one of your team’s dive lights starts to dim.
• When you start to shiver from the bone-chilling temperatures, even in tropical waters.
• When your stomach is growling for some much-needed supper.

Minding your bedtime manners: The Dos and Don’ts

Do:

• Wear a protective wetsuit (at least 3 mm thick) and gloves.
• Bring a primary flashlight (a good quality LED) and a back-up light with fresh batteries.
• Add extra weights the first few times you night dive to offset the buoyant effect of potential over-breathing due to panic or anxiety.
• Memorize and practice standard underwater signals for night diving.
• Follow your dive plan–stick to shorter, shallower dives and check your gauges often.
• Stay close to your buddy or dive master at all times.
• Control your buoyancy, keep your gear secured and hover above a reef to prevent damage.

Don’t:

• Overeat or drink alcoholic beverages before diving.
• Blind other divers by shining your light directly into their faces.
• Kick up the sandy bottom and annoy underwater photographers.

Notes:
This article was first published in Hello Bali magazine – July 2011.
Photos by Meliana Salim.

The post Entering the Twilight Zone first appeared on Meliana Salim.

The post Finding My Moyo first appeared on Meliana Salim.

In April 2010, a local scuba diving community, Forum Selam, successfully organized the first Banda Underwater Photo Rally Competition 2010. This week-long event was held in conjunction with Indonesia’s largest marine event, Sail Banda 2010, fully endorsed by the Maluku Regional Government, Maluku Tourism Board and major general M Noer Muis.

As project officer of the competition and moderator of Forum Selam, I was granted a front row seat on a very special voyage to the Banda Islands, travelling with the ever-gracious, adventurous and amicable major general Muis on his spacious KM Siwalima boat.

A Spicy Sojourn
A cluster of small islands of historical and cultural importance lies between Sulawesi and Papua in the heart of the Maluku Islands, promising chilling memories of Dutch-colonial-era violence, enchanting tales of its lucrative spices (nutmeg, mace, and cloves), and hidden secrets in its abandoned ruins. Exceptional natural beauty, fascinating geological processes and some of the world’s most biologically diverse marine life characterize the Banda Islands.

In the Elizabethan times, nutmeg (the nut from the nutmeg tree) and mace (the dried lacy scarlet aril) were highly regarded by the Europeans for their flavours, and also their preservative and medical qualities. Arab merchants endured arduous caravan routes through India and the Persian Gulf in search of pala (nutmeg), believed to be a cure for the epidemic Black Death in medieval Europe, resulting in huge demands and skyrocketing prices.

For What It’s Worth

• Nutmeg contains hallucinogens and shares a common chemical ingredient with ecstasy, a rave drug.

• Historically used as a hypnotic medicine, today nutmeg and mace are used mostly in baking recipes, sauces and liqueurs.

• Excessive nutmeg usage can cause clinical intoxication. Symptoms include nausea, vomiting, dizziness, anxiety, headaches, hallucinations, and irrational behaviour.

The Barbaric Invasions
Formerly native only to the Banda Islands, the source of these prized spices was kept a secret from the Europeans until the Portuguese arrival on the Spice Islands in 1512. When they failed to dominate the spice trade, the Dutch and the British quickly tried to jump on the boat, resulting in prolonged struggles to control the Bandas, leaving behind remnants of their violent military campaigns in the forms of eerie fortresses, loosely scattered cannons, countless wartime relics, and colonial-style mansions adorned with VOC (Dutch East Indies) symbols.

A Boy from Banda Turned King of Banda
For some celebrity shoulder-rubbing, it’s best to loiter in Hotel Maulana, Banda Neira’s most “luxurious” (two stars at best) residence, boasting impressive A-listers, such as the late Princess Diana, Mick Jagger, Jacques Cousteau, and Bali’s own Dr Lawrence Blair of the book “Ring of Fire”.

A trip to Banda will only be complete if one’s lucky enough to meet Bapak Des Alwi, the 80-year-young King of Banda; an influential pioneer, entrepreneur, writer – he recently published a memoir called “A Boy from Banda: A History of Spice Island Childhood” – and a passionate philanthropist whose foundation aims to preserve Banda’s natural and cultural heritage. A conversation with Pak Des, who is also the grandson of Said Tjong Baadilla, the legendary Pearl King of the East Indies, is time well spent in Banda.

Banished to Banda
Banda Neira, the islands’ main port and administrative capital, is best explored on foot. This charming, laid-back town is perfect for getting lost in. You may also hire a becak (Indonesian rickshaw) or ojek (motorcycle taxi) to take you around. I imagine Brad and Barry Klinge, Discovery Channel’s “Ghost Lab” brothers, will have a field day with the numerous spooky historical sites scattered all over Banda Neira.

Highlights

• Upgrade your cultural and historical knowledge of Indonesia at Rumah Budaya (a museum) and 1820s Istana Mini (the VOC Governor’s Residence); the latter houses a rusty statue of Dutch King Willem III.

• Learn what it was like to live in exile in the homes of anti-Dutch nationalist leaders Mohammad Hatta (Rumah Pengasingan Bung Hatta) and Sultan Syahrir (Rumah Pengasingan Bung Syahrir).

• Spot gorgeous mansions once owned by perkeniers (Dutch planters) on Jl. Gereja Tua and observe the antique tomb-stoned floors of Gereja Tua, a restored 1852 Catholic church.

• Cheer on the participants of pertandingan kora-kora (traditional Maluku boat races held in December) as they paddle furiously through the deep waters between Gunung Api and Banda Neira. Kora-kora is Maluku’s trademark canoe, shaped like a Chinese dragon boat, used in trade and war during the colonial periods. For the rest of the year, kora-kora demonstration can be arranged from your local hotel.

• At sunrise or sunset, head to the hilltop Benteng Belgica (Fort Belgica), a massive five-pointed star-shaped extensively restored Dutch fortress named after governor general Pieter Both’s native Flanders. Local children love to play hide-and-seek in the passages and bastions of this majestic fort, which was recently added to the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative Lists.

  

1. Visit the Spanciby Nutmeg Plantation in Bandas’ largest island, Pulau Banda Besar, and learn how to slice open a nutmeg fruit with a parang (cutlass) from a caretaker.

2. Climb the fertile volcanic slopes of the 666-metre Gunung Api – last erupted in 1988 – before sunrise for stunning daybreak views of Banda Neira and Banda Besar.

3. Sun-worshippers must hop to Hatta, Ai, and Neilaka islands for stretches of pristine beaches and world-class snorkelling. Bear in mind that amenities and facilities are limited to primitive guesthouses, solar-powered electricity, and rainwater.

4. In the 17th century, Pulau Run’s nutmeg trees were destroyed by the Dutch, rendering it worthless to the English, and leading to the eventual exchange with Holland of a North American island of equal disvalue in 1667 – an amusing fact considering that island is now known as Manhattan, New York.

Underwater Beauty
The potential of discovering virgin dive sites in the Banda Islands is enormous. Those closer to populated islands show evidence of human activities and impacts; garbage floating offshore, fishing nets entangled in corals, fish choking on plastic and a declining marine population due to over fishing. Make diving arrangements with the islands’ only dive operator, Spice Island Divers, but bring your own scuba gear for peace of mind. Collect any trash you see and put it in your BCD pockets for later disposal.

Highlights

• Snorkel the waters in front of Hotel Maulana – appropriately dubbed “Mandarin City” – for encounters with the Bandas’ mascot and every underwater photographer’s dream: the playful, kaleidoscopic Mandarinfish. Watch out for the abundant sea urchins and try not to swallow the garbage-infested water.

• Expect beautiful white beaches, great visibility and photogenic corals in Pulau Hatta, especially in Tanjung Seram.

• Beware of sweeping currents in Pulau Run’s spectacular drop-offs.

• The lava flow below Gunung Api makes for a dramatic dive, encompassing healthy hard corals patrolled by schooling bumphead parrotfish.

The Banda Islands offer a unique opportunity to delve into history and embark on the trip of a lifetime. These peaceful islands hold the promise of returning to their former glory, this time not only for their spices but for the intriguing historical lands and captivating underwater beauty. It is our utmost duty as residents of Indonesia to promote sustainable tourism and help the local community in this magical region. Remember to take only pictures, leave only bubbles and kill only time.

Getting there
The closest airports with connections to Ambon are Jakarta, Makassar and Denpasar. Airlines serving Ambon from Jakarta and Bali include Garuda Indonesia and Lion Air. From Ambon catch a PELNI ferry to Banda.

Accommodations in Banda Neira
Hotel Maulana
T: 0910 21022
themaulana.com

Delfika Guesthouse
T: 0910 21027
delfikaguesthouse.wixsite.com/delfika

Weather permitting
The best time to visit the Banda Islands is from September to April, for calm seas and ocean sightings.

Notes:
This article was first published in Hello Bali magazine – September 2010.
Photos by Meliana Salim.

The post Banda in a Nutshell first appeared on Meliana Salim.

I live in Bali, but despite waking up to the ‘Morning of the World’ and diving the diverse waters of the ‘Islands of the Gods’, I find it hard to ignore my insatiable wanderlust and quest for adventures. The lure of the exotic islands of Flores (made famous with the 2004 discovery of Homo Floresiensis, or ‘Hobbits’), and Komodo is too strong to ignore. It doesn’t take much to persuade two like-minded divers looking to flee Bali to join me on a five-day escapade over the Easter weekend.

A pleasant 1.5-hour flight to Labuan Bajo – the port of entry to Flores – grants us unobstructed aerial views of Komodo and Rinca Islands’ barren, savannah-like, undulating surfaces. Apparently, that’s exactly the way West Flores’s legendary mascots – the Komodo dragons – like their environment. We arrive just in time to welcome the dry season between April and October. Visiting these monstrous pre-historic lizards in their natural habitat (they’re only found on Komodo, Rinca, Flores, and other smaller neighbouring islands) is high on our list. The real draw for us, however, is the adrenaline-infused diving in Komodo’s high-voltage current sites, arguably the richest marine ecosystems in the world.

Life is simple on this side of the world. As we wander around town we can’t help but feel as if time has taken us backward. This seemingly forgotten fishing village is lined with dilapidated shophouses, a couple of mosques, several unassuming Catholic churches (the main religion in Flores, first introduced by the Portuguese in the early 1500s), and brightly painted warungs advertising Padang food. Guesthouses, homestay cottages, travel agencies, and dive operators dot the main streets on both sides. Curious onlookers greet us with benign smiles and shy hellos from their modest dwellings tucked down Labuan Bajo’s intimate alleys. Bemo drivers and ojeks offer their services enthusiastically; some of whom remember my name from a printed sign our driver held back at the airport. Dusk creeps in as we grab a balcony seat at Paradise Bar, sip chilled Bintangs, and wait for the stars to come out–a perfect end to a blissful day.

At the crack of dawn, the main jetty is jammed with people and activities. It seems like all of Labuan Bajo has congregated here: boat crew loading up supplies and equipment for the scheduled dives, fishermen transporting the day’s catch to a nearby market, and local children playing and fishing off the dock. The boat trip from Labuan Bajo to The Komodo National Park – a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Man and Biosphere Reserve – takes approximately 2.5 hours, with the promise of dolphin spotting along the way. Located between Sumbawa and Flores, the Park is a sprawling 2,321-square-kilometre project consisting of three main Islands: Komodo, Rinca and Padar. Divers are spoilt for choice with more than 50 unique dive sites, home to more than 1,000 species of rare fish, 260 species of progressive reef-building coral, 14 species of endangered whales, dolphins and giant turtles, and pelagic fish including sharks, manta rays and dugong.

We begin with an early morning blood-pumping dive at Castle Rock. The top of a submerged sea mount (at 3 to 4-metre depth) offers shelter from the east-flowing current, hence the name. The turbulent drift dive allows for shoulder-brushing with reef sharks, enormous napoleon wrasses, green turtles, angel fish, and schooling anthias, black snappers, batfish and jacks.

Diving Crystal Rock is an exhilarating experience not recommended for the faint-hearted. The name is derived from the crystal-clear water surrounding an open water pinnacle that rises to 14 metres with a 20-metre deep saddle in the centre. After several failed attempts at macro photography, I finally succumb to the powerful currents and tuck away my camera. We zoom past a resident school of yellow-ribbon sweet lips, playful batfish, fusiliers, big-eyed trevallies, tuna, and the occasional white-tip reef sharks.

Batu Bolong (Hollow Rock) – a little rock pinnacle that lies in 75 metres of water – is not nicknamed ‘Current City’ for nothing. The strong currents and steep drop-offs are what protect this signature Komodo dive site from local fishermen’s destructive fishing techniques. A hit with divers and paradise for underwater photographers, Batu Bolong has it all: a kaleidoscopic spectacle of marine bio-diversity in action; spectacular drop-offs inundated with hard corals and hawksbill turtles feeding on tunicates and sponges; magnificent walls patrolled by pelagic such as reef sharks, napoleon wrasses, giant trevallies, and dog-toothed tuna; flamboyant soft corals swarming with brilliant reef fish everywhere you look. A manta ray makes a guest appearance from the deep blue that leaves us gasping for an encore dive.

On our second day, we take a breather from the underwater roller-coaster to visit Loh Buaya, the access point to see Komodo dragons (or ‘Ora’, as the locals dub them) on Rinca Island. Our first Komodo dragon sighting occurs just around the rangers’ camp. It is well past breakfast time. A handful of Komodo dragons seek refuge from the scorching sun under the cool shades of a structure which, not surprisingly, turns out to be the kitchen.

An adult male dragon can grow to more than three metres long and weigh a hefty 160 kilograms, making them the largest lizards on the planet. Unimpressed with our ‘domesticated’ dragons, we let the park ranger, Pak Latih, lead us on an hour-long hiking tour across the open grass-woodland savannas and tropical deciduous forests. An expert in his field with 27 years of experience, Pak Latih reveals that the population of the dragons is in decline. There’s only a total of 1,600 Komodo dragons left in the wild (down from 3,300), 700 of which reside in Loh Buaya. The strict anti-poaching laws implemented by the Komodo National Park (established in 1980) help to a certain extent; the main contributing factor being a lack of food supplies on the islands. The dragons are cannibalistic (the younger dragons often roll in larger dragons’ feces to disguise their juvenile scent and protect themselves), tertiary predators that scavenge from carcasses of water buffalos, monkeys, goats, dogs, wild boars, and deer.

Months ago a fisherman was fatally attacked by a Komodo dragon while fruit-picking off a tree. There’s also a chilling tale of a park ranger who accidentally stepped on a dragon while leading a trek. He suffered from the venomous bite but survived, thanks to immediate medical attention. Perhaps trekking is not such a good idea after all.

We’re happy to be back in the waters by mid-afternoon and on our way to the designated dive site: Tatawa Besar (Big Tatawa). The entry point of the dive is dictated by the prevailing current, north or south. We have to keep alert for a swift up-current before entering the main current and descending down to an infinite sloping reef. The reward for this tricky dive is a photographer’s paradise. To my right is a gradual sloping plateau of reefs beaming with a prolific collection of robust soft and hard corals in every colour of the rainbow. Moray eels promptly retreat upon approach; lionfish, scorpionfish, pipefish, pufferfish, nudibranch, and rare invertebrates call this place heaven. To my left black-tip reef sharks, giant trevally, hawksbill turtles, napoleon wrasses, and bumphead parrotfish emerge from the vastness of blue. Overhead a plethora of schooling jackfish forms a vortex circling fellow bewildered divers. Utterly mesmerizing!

On our last and most memorable dive, we cruise along the surface of Karang Makassar (also known as Manta Point), South Komodo, all geared-up and impatiently looking out for lurking shadows beneath. This is the premier site for manta sightings. Within minutes our eagle-eyed divemaster signals to the captain. Our boat comes to an abrupt halt and all hell breaks loose. At a maximum depth of 16 metres, it takes a minute for our eyes to get accustomed to the plankton-infested milky waters – the perfect feeding grounds for these giants. We are instantly greeted by a resting marble stingray.

Suddenly a manta ray swoops overhead, promptly followed by another, and another. We kneel on the shallow sandy bottom and watch in complete awe, marvelling at the finesse with which these majestic mantas glide in to feed off the rich waters. Then as if on cue they disappear into the murk. The spectacular vista is addictive; we linger, praying for more.

A three-metre manta comes directly at me, vacuuming up clouds of plankton; so close I can lean back and capture a shot of its underbelly. This surreal, heart-to-heart moment with the manta makes me feel rather small and insignificant. We somersault with more than 15 mantas in total for almost an hour. With heavy, humbled hearts we tear ourselves away from this endlessly entertaining live performance, and back to the quiet pulse of Labuan Bajo.

Flores (Portuguese for ‘flowers’) is an open invitation to take a new look at nature, explore the indigenous culture, and delight in village charm. As divers, we’ve been given the privilege to witness what lies beneath this enchanting land – a veritable underwater garden. There are plenty of wonders and untamed regions yet to be discovered. Come with an open mind and tread gently. Experience a simpler life and marvel at the abundant blessings of Flores and Komodo.

Sokaraja Liveaboard Komodo
Jl. Soekarno Hatta 249 , Labuan Bajo
West Manggarai, East Nusa Tenggara
Komodo , Flores, Indonesia
sokarajaliveaboard@gmail.com
sokaraja.com

Notes:
This article was first published in Kabar magazine – Jul-Aug-Sep 2009.
Photos by Meliana Salim. 

The post Fleeing to Flores first appeared on Meliana Salim.

I shudder at the thought of hypothermia. At a chilly 19º Celsius and 30 metres down, my three-millimetre wetsuit is no match for the brutal thermocline: the wild temperature variations as steep as 8º Celsius in the space of mere metres. I rub my arms vigorously in an attempt to maintain my body temperature. We are on a hunt. Photo hunt, that is.

“When I dive, I feel alive. Everything else is just a surface interval”, said Dr. Phil Nuytten, a renowned Canadian ocean explorer. A statement I can easily relate to. I am blessed, as I live in the highlands of Bali. For a scuba fanatic, it’s a dream come true. I often feel the need to descend from the hills to answer the call of the ocean and lubricate my lungs. The beauty of living on a tropical island is that world-class dive spots are simply a phone call and an hour’s drive away.

Divers from all over the world congregate in Bali between July and October to catch a hopeful glimpse of the migratory Ocean Sunfish, also known as Mola-Mola (from the Latin word for millstone, aptly used to describe their roundish figure). These magnificent creatures currently hold the record for the heaviest bony fish on earth; a 3.1-metre long specimen weighed in at 2,235 kg (Carwadine, 1995).

Mola-Mola spend much of their time at cold depth feeding on their favourite diet: jellyfish. Their coarse sandpapery skin is covered with up to 40 different genera of parasites. Occasionally they emerge from the deep to rejuvenate at cleaning stations where schools of bannerfish await, eager to offer parasite riddance services. And one of these cleaning stations is conveniently located at Bali’s own Nusa Penida, a mere 40-minute boat ride from Sanur Beach.

Nusa Penida is the largest of three islands (Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan) lying off the southeast coast of Bali. This 17-kilometre long island is home to stunning corals and diverse marine life. It is a diver’s playground with numerous dive sites worthy of exploring: Crystal Bay, Blue Corner, Bat Cave, SD, and Toyapakeh, to name a few. Besides hosting the Mola-Mola’s seasonal migrations, Nusa Penida is also home to Manta Rays at Manta Point.

It is a gorgeous mid-July day at Crystal Bay – a signature dive site in Nusa Penida famed for the most consistent Mola sightings. The site isn’t named “Crystal Bay” for nothing; the waters are so clear it seems as if we’re looking through a piece of glass. I’m accompanied by my dependable dive buddy, I Made Wirawan, the founder of Bali Marine Diving, who comes equipped with his natural ability to detect Mola-Mola from a great distance. Mola sightings are dependant on various dive conditions: weather, time of day and month, and dive traffic.

Made signals for me to follow him. We descend further and come to a halt at a sloping reef, facing the open ocean with bated breath. We have limited time to stick around at the risk of running low on air and facing decompression sickness. My heart is racing and I no longer feel the icy water. And there it is, a 3-metre wide Mola parking motionlessly. Six overzealous bannerfish are feasting on its parasite-infested spotty silver skin. The Mola seems to be at peace with this complimentary grooming ritual. It’s a pretty bizarre-looking fish with a massive head, rounded tail, and long sweeping fins atop and below.

I manoeuvre myself carefully as not to disrupt its spa session. According to several reports, the Mola also habitually rests flat at the surface of the ocean to sunbathe, hence the common name “ocean sunfish”. A series of questions run through my head: Why do they choose to come to Bali? Where do they go from here? How do they reproduce? What are their roles in the marine environment? And how many are there left in this world?

Startled by a group of oncoming divers, it swiftly wakes up from an apparent trance. Its initial glide is smooth and graceful, but within seconds it speeds up and disappears into the abyss, leaving behind disappointed bubble-makers.

In mid-October last year I had the pleasure of meeting Dr. Tierney Thys, a passionate Californian marine biologist, a National Geographic Emerging Explorer and a filmmaker, during her workshop to the students of Green School, Bali’s innovative answer to alternative education. She was on a mission to place satellite tags on the Mola and collecting tissue samples for genetic and toxin analysis in the hope of uncovering the secrets of these remarkable creatures.

Dubbed as “the next generation’s champion of ocean exploration” by National Geographic, Dr. Thys and her team have dedicated almost a decade travelling the world’s ocean and studying the mysterious ways of the Mola. Despite their massive size, the Mola remains a creature of mystery; we still don’t know much about their reproductive cycle, population, migratory route, and hunting habits.

“It’s got these big eyes and a goofy look that draws you in to the ocean environment and sparks more questions”, claimed Dr. Thys. “We want to get people thinking about the ocean and not thinking that land is separate from the ocean but that it’s a big continuum. We can’t have healthy land with an unhealthy ocean.”

It is easy to have a certain expectation of entitlement when you’ve come a long way to see the Mola, but keep in mind that the well-being of the marine life comes first. Go with a reputable dive company with safety-minded dive instructors, be prepared for strong unpredictable currents, and respect the sanctuary of the Mola.

One can’t help but feel humbled in the presence of such evolutionary prehistoric creature. Human civilization is a mere drop in the ocean. Scuba divers and other ocean explorers have been given the privilege of witnessing some of Nature’s most incredible masterpieces. We are stewards of the ocean and with this come a great responsibility to raise awareness and protect Earth’s underwater inhabitants.

To learn more about Dr. Thys and her research or to adopt a Mola-Mola, please visit www.oceansunfish.org

Recommended Dive Centre:
Bali Marine Diving
T: (+62) 361 270386 / 289308 / 288776
E: info@balimarinediving.com
www.balimarinediving.com

Notes:

This article was first published in Garuda – The Magazine of Garuda Indonesia – September 2009.
Photos by Meliana Salim.

The post Finding Mola first appeared on Meliana Salim.